FLINDERS RANGE
Port Augusta – Stirling North - picnic area 35
Just at the entrance of Port Augusta, I check on the tourist map where is the post office. It is just before the bridge. I go there, and fortunately they received the tyres. It is a little difficult to hold 3 tyres at the backwheel, but I do.
Then I cross the bridge, by the pedestrian way on right, not cycling, too dangerous. And I turn left to downtown. It is nice, with a central garden and some old buildings, and a main street with all the shops. I find the spares I need for the bicycle and the hammock, and the supermarket. Then I take lunch on a table in the garden. I find the tap of water, and decide to continue the road.
I follow the highway 1, very busy of course, and I get off the town. On right there is a picnic area, hut, shelter and table, just before a lake, but the place is noisy and the lake is smelling. I try to find the recreation reserve indicated on right, but no way.
So I continue, turn on right way to Quorn, cross Stirling North which is just a suburb with big houses.
Then starts the slow climbing to Quorn, through fields and forest, by a narrow valley. I do 17 km and I stop at the picnic area on left, just a table and a tree, but enough to camp. I pitch the tent between the tree and the table, and take dinner. It starts to rain, but the tree protects me. It is very windy till evening.
I change the tyres and the front brakes, the bicycle is ready for the new trip.
Picnic area – Quorn – Warren Gorge 45
I awake and I see the silk sheet would brake soon, so I have some sawing in the early morning. Then I continue the slow climbing, and 1 km after I see a wonderful picnic area, on right, it is the Pichi Richi railway station. Well I don’t find the entrance, I suppose it is the trail on right just before. After a while I cross the Pichi Richi pass, and then I go quick for the 7 km till Quorn, by a wide valley with fields.
Quorn is a nice little town, with supermarket, good tourist office, and nice picnic area. Well it is forbidden to camp,because there are official campings, tourist business. It keeps some antic buildings and stores and hotel, and the railway station.
I go off way to Hawker, and turn left a little ahead in Schmidt gravel road. It is smooth, through fields, and I go till the end. Then I turn right in another smooth gravel road for 16 km. Here I turn left, following the Mawson trail, in a narrow and climbing trail. I Have strong headwind, so sometimes I have to push the bicycle. After 5 km through Cyprus forest, a local pine tree which affords dry landscape, I turn right and follow through fields for 4 km. then I turn left and I make 2 km till Warren gorge, where I camp. I make the 5 km of the walking trail, through the Cyprus trees and grass trees forest, with on a side views on peaks with grass and a large valley, and on other side cliffs at the top of the hills.
Warren Gorge – Hawker 71
I go back to the main gravel road, and I take it on left. It follows through fields, with big eucalyptus gum trees when there is a creek, for 16 km. then I turn right, I have headwind, and I enter in a poor grass land, for 30 km till the main road.
I take it on left, and 3 km after there is a stop bay, and a short trail goes till a water hole with big trees and some odd boulders. It could be a nice place to camp. And I did on the way back. Then the road follows a creek with beautiful trees for a while. And then the poor grass comes back till Hawker, with headwind. There are 15 km of climbing, and then it is flat.
I decide to camp in Hawker in an official campsite, 21 $, I really need a shower and wash the clothes, I start to smell. Hawker have a good store and petrol station.
Hawker - road B83 – Merna Mora – scenic drive – Arkaba – Arkapena 81
The store is open at 7h30 am, so I buy bread. Then I follow the mawson trail, well more or less. Why should I take a gravel road when there is a sealed road, and anyway nothing to see, apart that flat poor grass land, for 44 km, with head wind. So I take the main road B 83 for 44 km, till Merna Mora. On left are hills, and on right in the fog are the ranges, without grass, so I can see the geologic slats. There is a stop bay km 16 without commodities, and a very good picnic area with table, roof and water km 43 at the lookout.
I turn right to take the scenic drive which cross the ranges for 28 km. the gravel road is rough, with a lot of short up and down, and it is climbing for 16 km. then it flatters and becomes more regular, less up and down. It goes through big eucalyptus forest along a creek, then enters in a Cyprus forest, and then comes back in eucalyptus land. There a lot of purple or white flowers, and the acacia shrubs are with yellow or white flowers. And there is the view of the back ranges, red and yellow and orange slats, and also the view on the front black and grey range.
I join the main road, sealed which goes to Blinman. I turn on right, and 1 km after I stop at the picnic area and lookout. There are just 2 tables and so much wind! I lunch there, looking at the black mountain in front. I can’t afford the wind, so I move. The road climbs slowly with 4 up and down, crossing the Arkaba creek, during 9 km. I suddenly see, 2 km before Arka pena cross, a path on left going to a neighbour creek. I take it and camp there under olive trees, nice shade place without wind.
Arkapena – Wilpena – Mawson trail – Buyneyroo gorge 40 km
I am off early, but I meet headwind and slow climbing till Wilpena. Also I see a lot of wild animals, kangurus, emus, hawks, eagles. The cliffs are beautiful, all in colours. And I meet again Mary and his husband, third and last time, so we have a good chat. So it takes me 3 hours to do 24 km.
10 km after Arkapena cross, there are 2 picnic area, one on right along the road, and other on left 2 km inside, no water, but shade and table, nice places. 2 km later is the entrance of the National park, and there is a hut with the papers to pay the fees, and a water tank.
8 km ahead is the cross to Wilpena, 3 km inside on left. The place is the start of lot of walking trails, but there is no free place to camp, and it is very busy. All the tourists goes there, and the campsite is big. There is a good store too, and a good tourist office. I take lunch and I decide to ride off, not to walk.
I take the Mawson trail. The first km is horrible, just a small path very rough. Then it joins a trail, going downhill, it is slow but OK. It goes through Cyprus forest, with eucalyptus when there is a creek. The valley is narrow, and on left there is a lane of beautiful colourful peaks, and on right hills. After 13 km without wind and very hot, I meet the gravel road, and I turn on left, to find 1 km later the campsite, nice place indeed.
Buneyroo Gorge – Mawson trail – Brachina Gorge – Parachilna-5km 60
I go back to the main road at the yesterday cross with the Mawson trail, and this time I take on right. The Mawson trail follows the road for a while. It is a strenuous steep and long climbing, all pushing the bicycle, for 6 km. Then I enter in the Mawson trail, which is a track, for 13 km. It goes in a narrow valley, climbing through the Cyprus forest, till the top of the hills, where grow grass and shrubs.
I arrive at the geological gravel road, and I decide to turn left, to have backwind. The road is OK, through fields, till Aroona cross. Then it enters in Brachina gorge, and in fact the creek and the road are one. So it becomes really rough, with stones and holes and up and down for 10 km. But the cliffs around are very spectacular, all colourful, and like sculpted. At the end I stop at a campsite to take lunch, but the the place doesn’t have shade, so I decide to camp ahead.
Here is the mistake. I should let my stuff at the first campsite, when the Mawson trail join the road, and discover with the light bicycle the Brachina gorge, and then come back to the campsite to camp or continue the Mawson trail.
Well I choose to follow, way to Parachilna. The gravel road wides, but get off the ranges, and enters in a flat land with poor grass. It is very windy, and the gravel road is very rough, I can just cycle on the shoulder. After 12 km I join the main sealed road B83. There is a creek at the cross with eucalyptus, where I think to camp, but I don’t find the picnic area indicated on the map.
In the end I decide to continue till Comodore railway station, 7 km ahead. It is very windy, headwind, and only the poor grass land, very sad. Comodore station is just a poor hotel, so I continue. I find at last, 5 km before Parachilna, on right, 2 big trees near the road and near a gate. So I enter in the field and camp under the trees, protect from the wind and the possible rain. In fact it didn’t rain here, but it does in the ranges, heavy Rain around Blinman.
Parachilna – Angorichina – Blinmann – Bulls Gap 60
I do early the 5 km till Parachilna, through the poor grass land and with strong headwind. I don’t see any other place to camp. Parachilna is just an hotel and a caravan park, with toilet and water tank at the entrance. There is no table to picnic. So I take water, mixe it with powder milk, and continue.
I turn right to Angorichina and Blinman. For 10 km the gravel road goes very rough through the poor grass land, with strong wind. Then it enters in the ranges, following a creek, and comes eucalyptus trees. There is a nice picnic area and lot of places to camp along the creek.
Quickly I meet the turn on left to Glass gorge, but I would like to see Parachilna gorge, so I forget it. If I had done yesterday the go and go back to the first campsite, as I tell before, I should follow by the Mawson trail till Blinman, then follow by the Glass gorge, and go back to Blinman by Parachilna gorge.
The Parachilna gorge is rather beautiful, with big trees, water in the creek, and some colourful cliff. After 7 km of up and down, I join Angorichina caravan park, which have a good store.
Then starts the slow, steep and hard work climbing till Blinman, 15 km, with up and down. The road is rather smooth. It crosses first the Cyprus forest, and then enters in the top of the hills, with grass and shrubs. Blinman is a village, with an hotel and a caravan park, and some houses. But at least there is a basic store, and a picnic table, where I take lunch.
Then I continue by the main road, way to Wilpena and Hawker, on right. The road goes through the dry hills with poor grey grass, slowly going down with up and down to cross creeks. At 10 km there is a lookout on left at a peak which the top is a long cliff like a wall. At km 18 is Bulls creek, and on left the turn to the Dedman hut, just indicated fire store, and on right 50 m after the Bulls track which is the Mawson trail.
I turn left and stay in the hut, a little dirty but OK, with tank water. It is very cloudy this afternoon, so it may rain again, I prefer have a roof, and I am tired, why should I go further!
Dedmans hut – Mawson trail – Buneyroo valley scenic drive – Yanyanna hut 40
I slowly awake, it is cloudy and windy.
I take the Mawson trail. It is easy, in good state, through Cyprus forest, and in the end grass and shrubs, for 15 km. Then it arrives in Trezona campground, and I have to turn on left to join the Geological trail, 1 km ahead. I take it on right, and 4 km ahead, just after the cross to Aroona, I turn left in the scenic Buneyroo gorge road. Well it is similar at the Mason trail I did a few days ago, and I have to climb the same very steep 2 km, so it is not a good idea. I could turn left after the Mawson trail and join the main road.
But at least I know where to sleep, I stop tired in Yanyanna hut, a little after the top and little after passing the cross with the Mawson trail to Brachina gorge. The hut is nice, with table and chair.
Yanyanna hut – main road – Hawker - Quorn-40 97
It is 13 km mostly climbing from the hut till the main road, through hills with grass, and a few views of the peaks. I really shouldn’t do it!
After comes 51 km till Hawkers. I enjoy the 30 km downhill with backwind, through the Cyprus forest, with lookout on colourful peaks. Then it flatters and becomes 20 km undulating through poor grass and scattered shrubs, till Hawkers. The only place to camp is a forgotten stone hut on right 15 km before Hawkers.
In Hawkers it is Saturday morning, but the store is closed. I clean the chain and take lunch, and run away.
I continue way to Quorn for 26 km undulating till Dead rock and water pool. The place is very hot, and there is no shade apart along the creek and the hole, where it is impossible to camp, as animals and cheeps come to drink. Also it may rain, as the thunder sounds around. In the end it doesn’t rain, but I flat my matelas with a spin.
Just at the entrance of Port Augusta, I check on the tourist map where is the post office. It is just before the bridge. I go there, and fortunately they received the tyres. It is a little difficult to hold 3 tyres at the backwheel, but I do.
Then I cross the bridge, by the pedestrian way on right, not cycling, too dangerous. And I turn left to downtown. It is nice, with a central garden and some old buildings, and a main street with all the shops. I find the spares I need for the bicycle and the hammock, and the supermarket. Then I take lunch on a table in the garden. I find the tap of water, and decide to continue the road.
I follow the highway 1, very busy of course, and I get off the town. On right there is a picnic area, hut, shelter and table, just before a lake, but the place is noisy and the lake is smelling. I try to find the recreation reserve indicated on right, but no way.
So I continue, turn on right way to Quorn, cross Stirling North which is just a suburb with big houses.
Then starts the slow climbing to Quorn, through fields and forest, by a narrow valley. I do 17 km and I stop at the picnic area on left, just a table and a tree, but enough to camp. I pitch the tent between the tree and the table, and take dinner. It starts to rain, but the tree protects me. It is very windy till evening.
I change the tyres and the front brakes, the bicycle is ready for the new trip.
Picnic area – Quorn – Warren Gorge 45
I awake and I see the silk sheet would brake soon, so I have some sawing in the early morning. Then I continue the slow climbing, and 1 km after I see a wonderful picnic area, on right, it is the Pichi Richi railway station. Well I don’t find the entrance, I suppose it is the trail on right just before. After a while I cross the Pichi Richi pass, and then I go quick for the 7 km till Quorn, by a wide valley with fields.
Quorn is a nice little town, with supermarket, good tourist office, and nice picnic area. Well it is forbidden to camp,because there are official campings, tourist business. It keeps some antic buildings and stores and hotel, and the railway station.
I go off way to Hawker, and turn left a little ahead in Schmidt gravel road. It is smooth, through fields, and I go till the end. Then I turn right in another smooth gravel road for 16 km. Here I turn left, following the Mawson trail, in a narrow and climbing trail. I Have strong headwind, so sometimes I have to push the bicycle. After 5 km through Cyprus forest, a local pine tree which affords dry landscape, I turn right and follow through fields for 4 km. then I turn left and I make 2 km till Warren gorge, where I camp. I make the 5 km of the walking trail, through the Cyprus trees and grass trees forest, with on a side views on peaks with grass and a large valley, and on other side cliffs at the top of the hills.
Warren Gorge – Hawker 71
I go back to the main gravel road, and I take it on left. It follows through fields, with big eucalyptus gum trees when there is a creek, for 16 km. then I turn right, I have headwind, and I enter in a poor grass land, for 30 km till the main road.
I take it on left, and 3 km after there is a stop bay, and a short trail goes till a water hole with big trees and some odd boulders. It could be a nice place to camp. And I did on the way back. Then the road follows a creek with beautiful trees for a while. And then the poor grass comes back till Hawker, with headwind. There are 15 km of climbing, and then it is flat.
I decide to camp in Hawker in an official campsite, 21 $, I really need a shower and wash the clothes, I start to smell. Hawker have a good store and petrol station.
Hawker - road B83 – Merna Mora – scenic drive – Arkaba – Arkapena 81
The store is open at 7h30 am, so I buy bread. Then I follow the mawson trail, well more or less. Why should I take a gravel road when there is a sealed road, and anyway nothing to see, apart that flat poor grass land, for 44 km, with head wind. So I take the main road B 83 for 44 km, till Merna Mora. On left are hills, and on right in the fog are the ranges, without grass, so I can see the geologic slats. There is a stop bay km 16 without commodities, and a very good picnic area with table, roof and water km 43 at the lookout.
I turn right to take the scenic drive which cross the ranges for 28 km. the gravel road is rough, with a lot of short up and down, and it is climbing for 16 km. then it flatters and becomes more regular, less up and down. It goes through big eucalyptus forest along a creek, then enters in a Cyprus forest, and then comes back in eucalyptus land. There a lot of purple or white flowers, and the acacia shrubs are with yellow or white flowers. And there is the view of the back ranges, red and yellow and orange slats, and also the view on the front black and grey range.
I join the main road, sealed which goes to Blinman. I turn on right, and 1 km after I stop at the picnic area and lookout. There are just 2 tables and so much wind! I lunch there, looking at the black mountain in front. I can’t afford the wind, so I move. The road climbs slowly with 4 up and down, crossing the Arkaba creek, during 9 km. I suddenly see, 2 km before Arka pena cross, a path on left going to a neighbour creek. I take it and camp there under olive trees, nice shade place without wind.
Arkapena – Wilpena – Mawson trail – Buyneyroo gorge 40 km
I am off early, but I meet headwind and slow climbing till Wilpena. Also I see a lot of wild animals, kangurus, emus, hawks, eagles. The cliffs are beautiful, all in colours. And I meet again Mary and his husband, third and last time, so we have a good chat. So it takes me 3 hours to do 24 km.
10 km after Arkapena cross, there are 2 picnic area, one on right along the road, and other on left 2 km inside, no water, but shade and table, nice places. 2 km later is the entrance of the National park, and there is a hut with the papers to pay the fees, and a water tank.
8 km ahead is the cross to Wilpena, 3 km inside on left. The place is the start of lot of walking trails, but there is no free place to camp, and it is very busy. All the tourists goes there, and the campsite is big. There is a good store too, and a good tourist office. I take lunch and I decide to ride off, not to walk.
I take the Mawson trail. The first km is horrible, just a small path very rough. Then it joins a trail, going downhill, it is slow but OK. It goes through Cyprus forest, with eucalyptus when there is a creek. The valley is narrow, and on left there is a lane of beautiful colourful peaks, and on right hills. After 13 km without wind and very hot, I meet the gravel road, and I turn on left, to find 1 km later the campsite, nice place indeed.
Buneyroo Gorge – Mawson trail – Brachina Gorge – Parachilna-5km 60
I go back to the main road at the yesterday cross with the Mawson trail, and this time I take on right. The Mawson trail follows the road for a while. It is a strenuous steep and long climbing, all pushing the bicycle, for 6 km. Then I enter in the Mawson trail, which is a track, for 13 km. It goes in a narrow valley, climbing through the Cyprus forest, till the top of the hills, where grow grass and shrubs.
I arrive at the geological gravel road, and I decide to turn left, to have backwind. The road is OK, through fields, till Aroona cross. Then it enters in Brachina gorge, and in fact the creek and the road are one. So it becomes really rough, with stones and holes and up and down for 10 km. But the cliffs around are very spectacular, all colourful, and like sculpted. At the end I stop at a campsite to take lunch, but the the place doesn’t have shade, so I decide to camp ahead.
Here is the mistake. I should let my stuff at the first campsite, when the Mawson trail join the road, and discover with the light bicycle the Brachina gorge, and then come back to the campsite to camp or continue the Mawson trail.
Well I choose to follow, way to Parachilna. The gravel road wides, but get off the ranges, and enters in a flat land with poor grass. It is very windy, and the gravel road is very rough, I can just cycle on the shoulder. After 12 km I join the main sealed road B83. There is a creek at the cross with eucalyptus, where I think to camp, but I don’t find the picnic area indicated on the map.
In the end I decide to continue till Comodore railway station, 7 km ahead. It is very windy, headwind, and only the poor grass land, very sad. Comodore station is just a poor hotel, so I continue. I find at last, 5 km before Parachilna, on right, 2 big trees near the road and near a gate. So I enter in the field and camp under the trees, protect from the wind and the possible rain. In fact it didn’t rain here, but it does in the ranges, heavy Rain around Blinman.
Parachilna – Angorichina – Blinmann – Bulls Gap 60
I do early the 5 km till Parachilna, through the poor grass land and with strong headwind. I don’t see any other place to camp. Parachilna is just an hotel and a caravan park, with toilet and water tank at the entrance. There is no table to picnic. So I take water, mixe it with powder milk, and continue.
I turn right to Angorichina and Blinman. For 10 km the gravel road goes very rough through the poor grass land, with strong wind. Then it enters in the ranges, following a creek, and comes eucalyptus trees. There is a nice picnic area and lot of places to camp along the creek.
Quickly I meet the turn on left to Glass gorge, but I would like to see Parachilna gorge, so I forget it. If I had done yesterday the go and go back to the first campsite, as I tell before, I should follow by the Mawson trail till Blinman, then follow by the Glass gorge, and go back to Blinman by Parachilna gorge.
The Parachilna gorge is rather beautiful, with big trees, water in the creek, and some colourful cliff. After 7 km of up and down, I join Angorichina caravan park, which have a good store.
Then starts the slow, steep and hard work climbing till Blinman, 15 km, with up and down. The road is rather smooth. It crosses first the Cyprus forest, and then enters in the top of the hills, with grass and shrubs. Blinman is a village, with an hotel and a caravan park, and some houses. But at least there is a basic store, and a picnic table, where I take lunch.
Then I continue by the main road, way to Wilpena and Hawker, on right. The road goes through the dry hills with poor grey grass, slowly going down with up and down to cross creeks. At 10 km there is a lookout on left at a peak which the top is a long cliff like a wall. At km 18 is Bulls creek, and on left the turn to the Dedman hut, just indicated fire store, and on right 50 m after the Bulls track which is the Mawson trail.
I turn left and stay in the hut, a little dirty but OK, with tank water. It is very cloudy this afternoon, so it may rain again, I prefer have a roof, and I am tired, why should I go further!
Dedmans hut – Mawson trail – Buneyroo valley scenic drive – Yanyanna hut 40
I slowly awake, it is cloudy and windy.
I take the Mawson trail. It is easy, in good state, through Cyprus forest, and in the end grass and shrubs, for 15 km. Then it arrives in Trezona campground, and I have to turn on left to join the Geological trail, 1 km ahead. I take it on right, and 4 km ahead, just after the cross to Aroona, I turn left in the scenic Buneyroo gorge road. Well it is similar at the Mason trail I did a few days ago, and I have to climb the same very steep 2 km, so it is not a good idea. I could turn left after the Mawson trail and join the main road.
But at least I know where to sleep, I stop tired in Yanyanna hut, a little after the top and little after passing the cross with the Mawson trail to Brachina gorge. The hut is nice, with table and chair.
Yanyanna hut – main road – Hawker - Quorn-40 97
It is 13 km mostly climbing from the hut till the main road, through hills with grass, and a few views of the peaks. I really shouldn’t do it!
After comes 51 km till Hawkers. I enjoy the 30 km downhill with backwind, through the Cyprus forest, with lookout on colourful peaks. Then it flatters and becomes 20 km undulating through poor grass and scattered shrubs, till Hawkers. The only place to camp is a forgotten stone hut on right 15 km before Hawkers.
In Hawkers it is Saturday morning, but the store is closed. I clean the chain and take lunch, and run away.
I continue way to Quorn for 26 km undulating till Dead rock and water pool. The place is very hot, and there is no shade apart along the creek and the hole, where it is impossible to camp, as animals and cheeps come to drink. Also it may rain, as the thunder sounds around. In the end it doesn’t rain, but I flat my matelas with a spin.
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