Australia 47 along the coast till sydney, the end of that trip

along the coast till sydney, the end of that trip

Milton – Wandamdia – Nowra 60I continue by the hilly highway, by the forest and farms land, and it is a sunny day with heavy showers. Wandamdia have a nice sport ground along the highway. In Bewong the picnic area is miserable, just 2 tables along the road. Then in Nowra the show ground is also a caravan park.

I stay in Don home (warmshowers) a couple of nights, time to dry all my stuff, have 2 very good dinners, and time for him to present me all his trips by bicycle.

Nowra – Kiama – Shell Harbour 60

I follow the coast road. The Kanguru valley is closed by the rain. It is weekend so there is a lot of cars traffic. But it is sunny. Till 7 miles beach the road goes by farms land. Then it enters in the forest with a lot of little palm trees, till Kiama. It is hilly. In Kiama I connect with the bicycle lane, but it is not made for a loaded bicycle, a lot of winding, detours and steep up and down, and crowdy.

After Minnamura bridge there is a picnic area, where to camp. Then the road crosses a wet forest, very nice. Well I do the mistake to continue till Shell cove and Killalea state park, far away, very hilly road. The park looks like a botanic park, and the camping is 15$. In fact it is possible to camp in the picnic area, shelters and tables along the river, which at the entrance of Shell cove, near the cross with the golf and the mine.

Shell Harbour – Wollongong – Austin mer - King national park 70

The bicycle lane follows the main road, very busy and noisy, till Wollongong, which is tourist town, crowdy. After the light house, the bicycle lane goes by parks and sport ground, beaches and wet lands, till Bulli. It is very nice, but not a place to camp.

In Bulli I take the main road again, which goes up and down very steep, along the sea, lined by cliffs. I cross the large and funny bridge, and climb the steep Stanwell hill.there is a beautiful lookout at the top, on the coast, with cliff and the bridge.

Then it goes down hill and I enter in the National park, in the forest. On left there is a big clearer, no services but nice, where I camp.

King National park – Waterfalls – Bundeena – Sydney 100

I go up to Waterfalls through the forest with a lot of high and small palm trees, with a lot of different species. Waterfalls is a village. I go back to the road in the park, and follow it by the forest, very hilly. The forest changes, some part eucalyptus acacias and banksias, some part with dense schrub, till Bundeena. It is a small town, along the sea, with a store. The NP campsite is empty, and it should be 15$, but no caretaker charges me. I stay 3 nights waiting for the plane.

I go to sydney by the road, not by the ferry, and arrive in the airport for my plane. That is the end of my travel in Australia, 9 months, 15 thousand km.

Australia 46 a week of heavy rain

a week of heavy rain

Tathra – Bermagui – Tilda – Mystery bay – Narooma – campsite 100The rain lights a bit, so I decide to move, in the morning. I go downhill again, anf follow the coast. A few km and the road crosses the river, with a wonderful picnic area just before, all confort. There is the sea on right, and a lake on left, with hills in the distance. Tathra is really a wonderful place.
Then the road goes hilly by the forest, short hills first, then after a flat at middway, long hills till Bermagui. There are community halls in Tanga and in Mullah, where I stop a while waiting for the end of a storm. By that way, I avoid most of the rain.
Bermagui is a touristic town, not a place for free camping. Here start the lakes or inlets on left, with the sea on right. In fact they are old deltas, when the sea level was 300 m higher, 20 thousand years ago. When the sea level had gone down, it lasted the dunes, which stops the river and makes a lake. There is a nice lookout on the beach with cliffs just before Bermagui, with tables, good to camp.
After Bermagui the only place to camp free is 10 km after Narooma. I make the detour by Tilda, a nice antic village in timber, in a beautiful landscape, worth a detour. But it is very hilly and steep, and there is no place to camp.
I continue a few km, and turn on right to Mystery bay, where there is a basic campsite, 15$, along the beach, in the forest. I camp here, managing a shelter with the tarp i use to pack the bicycle for transporting it in plane or bus. I have heavy rain all night, and in the morning. The ranger comes, but he talks a little with me, and by charity he doesn’t charge me for 1 night.
I decide to move under the heavy rain, as the place is too unconfortable with the rain. I go back to the main road, and follow it till Narooma. There are beautiful lakes along the road and in Narooma, and beautiful beach too. But Narooma is a touristic town, full of caravan parks, not a place for free camping.
I continue 10 km more, hilly by the forest, till the picnic area, large place in the forest, tables, toilet, water, shelter. I manage a good shelter with the tarp, and i stay here 4 days, waiting for the end of the rain. In fact the rain stop all Saturday, but with a storm all night, and becomes very light on Sunday. But as I have plenty of time, and all my stuff wet, I stay. On Sunday I meet a cyclist, who have made Tasmania by kayak and by bicycle. He tells me he have meet the french cyclist in Tathra, whom stays in a caravan park for 5 days.

Narooma picnic area – Dalmeny – Narooma – Moruya – Moruya quarri 65
On Sunday I go back to Narooma for shopping, and also to see the tourist drive along the sea. There is a bicycle lane from the cross, by Dalmeny and Kianga till Narooma, with nice lookouts on the sea and cliffs. It is very windy and chilly. Then i go back to the campsite.
On Monday I move by the highway, very hilly till Moruya, by the forest. I see an other beautiful inlet, and it is a sunny day. Moruya is a little city, with a beautiful picnic area along the river, but not a place to camp. The sport ground is way to Araluen.
I continue, turning on right after the bridge to follow the river. 5 km ahead, I stop in Moruya quarri picnic area, shelter, water, table, toilet, along the river, perfect to camp.

Moruya quarri – Batemans bay – Eucalyptus trail picnic area 53
I follow the coast road, very hilly, which goes by the forest, and joins only a few times the beaches rounded by cliffs.
Batemans bay is a town, no place to camp, I run away. 15 km ahead is the eucalyptus trail and picnic area, toilet, shelter and tables. Choose the place upstair, 500 m by the trail, very better. Be careful, there is no sign, but it is the only trail on right after Tomboye road, which is on left (way to Sydney).
Eucalyptus trail – Ulladula – Milton 45
I follow the hilly highway by the forest. In Buril lake there is a marvellous park where to camp, with all confort. I wait here the end of a heavy shower. Ulladula is a town along the road, not a place to camp. Milton is the same, but smaller. I decide to stop here, and I go to the show ground. Normally it is a caravan park, but it is closed, the ground is destroyed by the rain. I find a small veranda at the dog club house, where I camp. I protect myself with the tarp. Ther is heavy rain and storms all afternoon and all night, with very strong wind.

Australia 45 going up again but stopped by the rain regressing till the coast

going up again but stopped by the rain regressing till the coast

Hightway 1 – Cann river – Chandlers creek 60The highway is very hilly and steep, by the forest. It doesn’t have always a shoulder, but not so much traffic too. Cann river is a small town, just for tourism, without place to camp. We turn on left to Pombala. It is an easy climbing by farms land. After 27 km, there is a sign on right, waterfall, and between the river and the road there is a nice picnic area, tables, where we camp. I wash myself in the river.

Chandledrs creek – Pombala 60
For 25 km the road climbs easily. Then it becomes steep with hills. It is all by the forest. There a few traffic and shade, nice road. There is a picnic area 15 km after Chandlers creek, a table. We camp in Pombala, 700 m hight, in the park along the river, after the bridge, shelter, toilets, water, table. There is a big storm all evening.
Pombala – Cartcarth – Wyndam – Pambula picnic area 75
The road clims easily for 10 km, till the gap, 900m high, by fields, then it flatters, till Cartcarth, little village with a nice community hall to camp with shower shelter table toilet.
Then it goes by a quick downhill with a few short climbs, by the forest with fern trees, till Wyndam, a little town with a park where to camp.
We continue after lunch, 15 km more, till Pambula river picnic area, a big campsite without facilities. The river makes a wonderful natural pool, where we wash. It rains by night.
Pambula river – Pambula – Therimbula – Tathra 50
The road becomes hilly and steep, by forest. Pambula is a small town, with a park and a sport ground, and there is a bicycle lane till therimbula, 4 km, other little town, but not a good place to camp.
Since Pambula we have heavy rain. I ask at the tourist office, and they tell me the rain would continue heavy for a week; after a short chating, we decide to continue till Tathra, the next town. The other cyclist runs away, going quick. Me I am a little scared to cycle on a main road, hilly, with traffic, under the rain, so I go rather slow. I arrive in Tathra, and see a sport ground at the entrance, uphill, where I will camp, under the veranda. The caretaker comes to visit me and opens the showers, good.
But before I goes downhill along the coast, to the shop and tourist office, to look for the other cyclist, no news. I go up again and ask in the shops uphill, no news. Well I forget it. I have a look on the beautiful lookout on the beach and the cliffs in the distance, all around. And I return to the sport ground. It stop raining in the evening.

Australia 44 first part along the coast

first part along the coast

Bruthen – Nicholson – Bruthen – Nowa Nowa 73I take the rail trail way to Bairnsdale for 20 km, undulating by farms land, till the lookout on the lake. Then I go back to Bruthen. I lunch and continue the rail trail way to Orbost. It climbs lightly by forest. There is a table on the road before Trestle bridge, full sun, so I don’t stop. Trestle bridge is a large railway bridge, all in timber, jumping a valley, very impressive.
I continue till Nowa Nowa, which is a village with a few houses, hotels, and a little store. I go to the sport ground in front of the store, but there is no table no veranda, nothing. Fortunately just before, on left, there is a beautiful park along the river with tables, the pony club, where I camp.

Nowa Nowa – Lake tiers park – New Merela 61
I follow the rail trail for 10 km, and I turn on right in Warrera road, to Lake Tiers campsite. I do 10 km on a rought gravel road undulating in the forest, and I don’t see nothing. So I go back to the rail trail. It goes by the forest, with a lot of banksia trees, undulating. There are 2 tables along the road, but in full sun, and without any confort.
I arrive in New Merela, and just before, at the second cross with Junction road, I turn on right to join the highway 1. I enter in New Merela, and there is a beautiful sport ground where I camp.

New Merela – Orbost – Marlo – Hightway 1 73
I follow the rail gtrail till Orbost, which is the end. Orbost is a little town with a park and caravan park along the river. I meet a french cyclist and after a nice talk, we decide to continue together. That will last 4 days, after what he lets me to camp in a caravan park.
We continue by the river road till Marlo, by fields, with a few picnic areas along the river. The best one is the second, 7 km after Orbost. Marlo is a touristic village where we lunch, and it is better to avoid free camping around here. Then we follow the coast, but the sea is mostly hidden by the dense bush, eucalyptus, tea trees and banksias. There are some lookout on the mouth of the Snowy river, with a dune between the sea and the river.
In cap Conrade there is a picnic area and an acess to the beach. I am not sure it is a good place to free camping. Anyway we continue, and join the hightway 1. 15 km after the cross there is a picnic area. Along the road there is only a table, but by the gravel road, 500 m ahead, there are toilet, water and tables, in the forest, very nice. In the morning we follow the short walk by the rain forest full of fern trees.

Australia 43 the alps and alpine road

the alps and alpine road

Hariette – Mount Hotman – Dinner plain 49The climb takes me 4h30, and 1h to join Dinner plain campsite, the first place to stay. There is 10 km very steep, till the picnic area, just a table. Then it eases a little for 10 km. and it finishes by 10 km very steep, till Mt Hotman. All that is by the forest. There are some lookouts, on the valley of Hariette first, then on the mountains and peaks around, all covered with forest. A wide part is only white truncks, burnt forest, the Ash eucalyptus don’t survive bush fire. Hotman is just a tourist village, no picnic area, no benche, just a street with lodges and hotels.
I continue and follow the hilly road for 10 km, till Dinner plain hut and campsite on right. The hut is nice but the water tank is broken. Well there is a spring 3 km before, where I feed the bottles. I stay 2 nights in the hut, making a little fire in the chimney.

Dinner Plain – Omeo – Swift creek 77
The road goes mostly by farms land, fields and crops, rounded by hills with forest. the weather turns from sunny to cloudy with rain. Dinner plain is an other tourist village, just lodges and hotels, no store. Omeo is a little town, with a supermarket and a sport ground. Swift creek is a village, without sport ground nor picnic area.
For 30 km the road goes slowly downhill by steps, a short down, a flat undulating, etc… then comes a long steep climb, with at the top a picnic area, tables, with a lookout. Then comes 7 km of very steep downhill, an other picnic area, and downhill till Omeo (45 km).
It is 1 pm, cold and raining, so I continue. I meet 9 km climbing, 9 km very steep downhill and 9 km flat and windy till Swift creek. Here the picnic area along the river is a caravan park. Fortunately there is the gun club house 2 km before the village, where I camp, under the veranda, benches but no water and no toilet. It rains all evening. A car driver comes and looks at me and moves away.
Swift creek – Ensay – Bruthen 77
I continue by the Alpine road, which follow the river on his left side, downhill. There is poor traffic. The road goes by farms land, rounded by hills with forest. The weather is chilly. The river is lined by trees and bush, very nice.
After 7 km, just before the bridge, I turn on right in a back road along the river. It is the same country side till Ensay, 25 km. here there is a beautiful sport ground. I lunch and wash myself and the clothes in the sink in the toilets.
I go back on the Alpine road, which follows again the river for 25 km, undulating, with some steep short climbings. Sometime the river is deep in a narrow gorge, between very steep slopes, sometime it crosses flats with fields and farms. Tambo crossing is just that, a flat with a few farms, and a old bridge. 5 km after there is a picnic area, toilet, table and shelter, where I lunch. But I notice that the floor of the shelter is downhill, so the rain goes in. So I continue.
The road gets off the river bed, and goes up hill, by 10 km of steep climbing, and then 7 km down hill, by the forest. Then it is undulating for 10 km till Bruthen, a village.

Australia 42 till the foot of the alps

till the foot of the alps

Melbourne – Ilydale – Warburton – Yarra dam 66

I stay 2 days relaxing in Melbourne, in Kim home (warmshowers) . Then I take the train till Ylidale to avoid all the suburbs. From here I take the highway, and quickly turn on right, just under the railway bridge, in the old ralway lane, nowdays used as a bicycle lane. It goes by farms land with a lot of trees, wineries and fields, nearly flat and smooth, for 42 km, till Warburton.
Warburton is a tourist village. The sport ground and the supermarket are 1 km further, on road C511. I continue by the road C511, easy climbing, undulating, by the forest, with fern trees. 5km after there is Warburton East, with a community hall, and 15 km after there is a picnic area at Little Peninsula tunnel. Then Mac Mahon is just an hotel, and Grafton a few houses.
I join Yarra river bridge, where there are 2 tables. I turn on right to Yarra National Park and dam, 3 km ahead, where I camp in the picnic area, all confort. In the morning the ranger explains me the road ahead, which would be a hard day.
Yarra dam – Matlock 40

In fact there are 85 km, but I get a lift. It start by 9 km steep climbing and then 11 km very steep up and down, till the cross. Here I turn on right, I don’t go to the village. It is 850 m high. Then the gravel road starts, yet climbing, and hilly, and about Triangle, the gap is 1150 m high. Here there is a picnic area. Then the hilly climb continues till Matlock. Here there is a good place, big shelter, toilets, water tables, where I camp.
It is all by the forest with fern trees. The weather is horrible, hailing, raining, foggy, fortunatly i have a lift.

Matlock – Wood Point – Gaffney creek – Kevington 55

The road is all by forest. It starts by 8 km steep downhill till Wood point, which is a village. Just after there is a free campsite, shelter, toilet, water, table. Then comes 6 km of steep climb, gap 1025 m high, and 6 km steep downhill till the gold mine, a few houses. Then the road connects with a river, and follows it by a slow downhill till Kevington. There are picnic areas all along, with tables and toilet, but no shelter and no water. Kevington is a village, with a good free campsite, just after, shelter, toilet, water from the river. A big storm bursts just after I arrive, and it hails and rains for hours.

Kevington – Jamieson – Mansfield – Bridge creek 61
The road is hilly for 30 km by forest. Then it flatters by fields, with some views on the arms of Eldon lake, rounded by hills covered by forest. Jamieson is a village with a store and a picnic area. Mansfield is a touristic town, where I meet a couple of cyclists. After lunch, I move, way to Whitefield, road C521. 11 km later, I turn on left, to Samara State park, 4 km by gravel road till the campsite, toilet and tables, but no roof and no water.

Bridge creek – Whitefield – Eldi 71
From Mansfield till Whitefields, there are 12 km undulating by farms land. Then comes 10 km of steep climbing by the forest till Tomie, with picnic area, shelter, table, water, toilet. Then 8 km steep hilly till the gap 850 m high. Then comes 16 km light downhill by hill, gap 750 m, and 10 km of steep downhill till Whitefields. All that is by forest, with some farms and wineries.
Whitefield is a small town, with sport ground and store. Then there is 14 km flat undulating by a large valley, farms, crops, fields, and winneries, rounded by hills covered by forest. I arrive in Eldi, where there is a free campsite.

Eldi – Wangarrata – Rail trail – Tarrawingee 57
It is all by flat farm land with a lot of trees and winneries, with hills coverde by forest in the distance. There are picnic areas in Moyhu, and on road C522 in Oxley.
Wangarrata is a town, with free shower in the toilets at the top of the park, on the main street. But there is no place to camp. Then I follow the main street way to East, pass the tourist office, the park and the bridge, and just after I turn on right in the rail trail, which goes till Bright. After 21 km I stop in a picnic area, shelter, table, toilet and water, to camp.

Tarrawingee - Beechworth – Everton 44
I follow the rail trail by farms land, till the cross to Beechworth. I go up by slow climbing for 15 km till Beechworth, by forest and winneries. Beechworth is now a touristic little town. It was a gold mine, and it keeps some stone building, and a main street with timber buildings, western look like. Also there is a beautiful tourist drive for 5 km, by pine forest, with boulders, waterfalls, and an orange bed of river. And a lookout on the plain. It is worth a visit.
Then I go back to the rail trail, and camp in Everton picnic area, as confortable as yesterday.

Everton – Myrtleford – Eurobin – Porepunkah 56
It is the same large farms land valley till Myrtleford. Myrtleford is a little town with a nice park in the entrance, good to camp. The valley narrows between 2 ranges of hills with forest, orchards, farms land, and winneries. There is a big peak with a cliff, upper than the others, Mount Buffalo.
I arrive at Eurobin rail trail station or picnic area. The place is confortable, but without intimacy and noisy, wide open on the graat Alpine road. So I continue till Porepunkah. Here along the river there is a picnic area with all confort, where I camp. The storm burts by the afternoon.

Porepunkah – Bright – Hariette 46
The trail gets off the Great alpine road, and goes along the golf by a nice backroad, and enters in town by side streets. Bright is a noisy little town, mostly hotels and cafes. I go away quickly, and stop 6 km further in Inbrouck, in the community hall, nice place to camp, shelter, table, water, but no toilet.
I follow the Great Alpine road till Hariette, barely climbing, by a narrow valley with crops and orchards, rounded by high hills with forest. Harriette is a village, with a basic store, a sport ground and a nice park, shelter table toilet water, where I camp.

Australia 41 MELBOURNE TILL SYDNEY: starting by the alps, finishing by the coast

MELBOURNE TILL SYDNEY: starting by the alps, finishing by the coast

Melbourne – Ilydale – Warburton – Yarra dam 66
Yarra dam – Matlock 40
Matlock – Wood Point – Gaffney creek – Kevington 55
Kevington – Jamieson – Mansfield – Bridge creek 61
Bridge creek – Whitefield – Eldi 71
Eldi – Wangarrata – Rail trail – Tarrawingee 57
Tarrawingee - Beechworth – Everton 44
Everton – Myrtleford – Eurobin – Porepunkah 56
Porepunkah – Bright – Hariette 46
Hariette – Mount Hotman – Dinner plain 49
Dinner Plain – Omeo – Swift creek 77
Swift creek – Ensay – Bruthen 77
Bruthen – Nicholson – Bruthen – Nowa Nowa 73
Nowa Nowa – Lake tiers park – New Merela 61
New Merela – Orbost – Marlo – Hightway 1 73
Hightway 1 – Cann river – Chandlers creek 60
Chandledrs creek – Pombala 60
Pombala – Cartcarth – Wyndam – Pambula picnic area 75
Pambula river – Pambula – Therimbula – Tathra 50
Tathra – Bermagui – Tilda – Mystery bay – Narooma – campsite 100
Narooma picnic area – Dalmeny – Narooma – Moruya – Moruya quarri 65
Moruya quarri – Batemans bay – Eucalyptus trail picnic area 53
Eucalyptus trail – Ulladula – Milton 45
Milton – Wandamdia – Nowra 60
Nowra – Kiama – Shell Harbour 60
Shell Harbour – Wollongong – Austin mer - King national park 70
King National park – Waterfalls – Bundeena – Sydney 100

Australia 40 Bunbury till Perth by the hills

Bunbury till Perth by the hills

Bunbury – Brunswick junction – Bela road – Wellington dam road – river road - Mundabiddi – refuge 67

Well bad start, the computer collapes again, and Neal and Thora, stupid people, tell me to move, as I am not acting like a servant. So I run away. Fortunatly it will be a good day in the end.
I follow the river till Aqualind. It is all in town, with a nice view on the river from the bridge, and after the bridge there is a nice park along the river. At Coles I turn on right, cross the town, and join the highway. I take it on left and immediatly I turn on right in Ferguson road. It goes by farms land with trees till Brunswick junction, little town with a nice park along the river, shelter, toilets, water.
I take Bela road, which starts sealed for 10 km by farms land. Then it becomes a narrow and hilly harsh trail by the forest, along the railway. Suddenly it is closed. In fact there is a new trail on right just a little before, climbing, crossing the hill till the highway.
I turn on left, and 2 km after I turn on right way to the dam. After 5 km I turn on right in River road, gravel and a bit hilly. I pass Honey Moon campsite, which is full. I cross the bridge upon a beautiful river, and I take the Munda biddi trail. It starts by a very steep climb, then lets the road to zig zag by the forest down hill, and joins a harsh and undulating and narrow trail. I follow it for 2 km, and turn on left to go to the refuge 500 m ahead. I have to do all pushing the bicyle.
The refuge is very quiet, inside the forest, and I pitch the tent inside to avoid mosquitoes, flies and spiders.


Munda biddi refuge – Collie – Harris dam 52

I have a very good sleep. Then I push the bicycle for 2 km to join Pile road. It connects with Mundabup road. This one goes to Collie, hilly, by the forest. It is 35 km, with 7 km gravel, corrugated, dusty and slippery.
Collie is a little town, and all the shops are closed because is National Day. I decide to go to Harris dam to camp. It is 10 km ahead, with a few hills, with forest on west side and farms on east side. The picnic area is nice, near a little dam, tables and toilets. But be careful, during the night there is an automatic watering of the lawn. Well fortunatly I choose a place unwatered.

Harris dam – Collie – Mornington road – Weird road – Kent road – Hoffman Mill campsite 94

I go back to Collie, and a little before the town I turn on right in Mornington road. It is sealed till Harvey. It is flat for 16 km, and the a bit hilly, by the forest. I join the highway, good shoulder and no trucks, and I turn on right to follow it 10 km till Harvey. Harvey is a little town.
It is hot and early, so I decide to continue. I take Weird road along the dam, and there is a nice picnic area, table, shelter, toilet, to camp, just at the start. But i continue. I meet a steep up and down road by farms land with trees. The lake is hidden by the trees, so it is not worth a detour.
After 15 km i decide to go to Munda biddi refuge by Honeymoon gravel road, but after 5 km the road is closed. So I come back, and turn on right to follow Weird road 2 km more, easy downhill. I turn on kent road, slow climbing for 10 km by a gravel road, till the end and the cross with Clarke road. The campsite is here, totally empty, with tables and toilets and water. I pitch the tent under the veranda of the toilets, and wash myself and my clothes in the sink.


Hoffman Mill – Nanga road – Munda biddi refuge 31

I decide to have a rest day. Clarke road is closed on East way, the bridge is broken. Well the creek is short, so I pass it bringing the bicycle and the stuff. I continue 500 m and I turn on left in Nanga road. It is a bit hilly, mostly climbing by a rought gravel road. After 15 km I cross the Munda biddi trail. But as there are mines around, there is a temporary new trail. In fact it is just a path along the road, very incomfortable for a few km. I could follow on the road, it would be easier. When Nanga road turn on left, in a downhill, and with the view of the next hill, at the nivel of the sign, the Munda biddi path turns on right. You won’t miss it. It goes downhill till a bridge where it joins the originel track. I turn on left, and go till the gate. Just after, there is a narrow trail on left which goes till the hut. I camp here, in the forest and a gully neighbour, very quiet.


Refuge – Munda Biddi – Nanga road – Dwellingup – Park road – Dandalup refuge 58

From the refuge I follow the Munda biddi trail, which is a narrow trail mostly cyclable, for 11 km, till Nanga. Here there is a campsite, just tables and pit toilet, no water, where I take a rest.
I follow Nanga road, sandy and corrugated, along the river. As there are pools, the campsites are all crowdy, and there is a lot of traffic. After 20 km I join Dwellingup, the last 7 km are sealed but very steep hilly. Dwellingup is a little town.
I follow Park road, way to Dandalup, easy hilly road by the forest. I turn on right in 0scar gravel road, corrugated and slippery. I follow it for 3 km, and turn on left in the Munda biddi trail. It is a rought path winding by the forest, and I push the bicycle for 2 km, till the refuge. The refuge is in a young forest with a wonderful view on the plain which goes till the sea.


Dandalup refuge – Dandalup – Armadale 115

I decide to go back to the seled roads. So I return to Park road and go downhill till Dandalup. There are just a few houses and a hotel, no shop, but a nice park along the road where to camp.
I continue by Albany highway, but I let it quickly to follow a parallel backroad along the railway, very quiet. I follow Hall road, Wright road and then Soldier road, and cross Serpentine and Munding Vale. along these road there are villages, with store and sport ground each.
En Byford, a place with houses and shops, I join again the Albany highway. But i let it for Eleven road. Then I could take Wungong road to Armadale. But I decide to go first to Caning vale to bring the computer for repairing. Well I waste my time, the shop tells me to give it in Melbourne.
I go back to Armadale, and look for a place to camp. I go to Lake park, but it a very large artificiel lake used as a swimming pool and rounded by houses. I check the park near the swimming pool, but it is in the center, not a good idea. In the end I find a nice place just at the cross between the Albany and the South West highways, tables, toilet, water, shadow, and a bit hidden. I camp here. A couple invites me for dinner, very tasty pasta and wine.


Armadale – Brookton highway - Canning road – Karinyah refuge 35

I climb the steep hill by the Brookton highway, 12 km by the forest, till Canning road on left. I follow it till the bottle shop, where I buy some wine and ask my way. There is a sport ground just behind. I follow Blackwood road, Station road, School road, and Dale road, where i cross the Munda biddi trail.
I take it on right till the refuge, wher I stay 2 nights.


Karinyah refuge – Kalamuda – Perth 108

I go to Kalamuda for shopping, and sleep in a picnic area 10 km away in Weird road. It rains all night, but I pitch the tent under the veranda of the toilet.
I go back to Kalamuda, and to the Karinyah refuge, where i stay again 2 nights.
Then I go back to Caning road, which I follow till Perth. I camp in the caravan park just neighbour the airport. There is a reserve, some wild forest, just behind the campsite, so it is possible to camp for free.
I take the plane to Melbourne tomorrow.

Australia 39 West coast around Margaret river

West coast around Margaret river

Canebreak - Kudardup – Augusta 56

I start late, as first I have to repair the cable of the front derailer, which is nearly broken. I short 1 cm of the tube, and that is done.
The Brokman hgw flatters, and I meet an English cyclist in Alexandra bridge. We stop for lunch just here, in the Hall, nice place to camp, toilet, table, shadow, water. we talk a long while, he just start his travel from Perth, which he plan very long (http://perthtosydneytheroundaboutway.blog.com).
Just after the hall there is a campsite, 7$, which should be nice too, along the Blackwood river, which makes a large and deep pool here. 2 young guys play jumping in from the bridge.
Just after the bridge I turn on riht in Glenarty road. It is hilly and by fields, but I avoid the traffic. I arrive in Kudardup, which is just a few houses, no water. So I decide to go to Augusta to camp.
Augusta is a turistic town, all services, and I find easily the sport ground, where I camp near the bicycle games, toilet and water.

Augusta - Cape Leuwin - Cave road - Hamelin bay - Boranup campsite 50

From Augusta I go by the main road till Cape Leeuwin, first by forest, and then by schrubs land, and there is nothing exciting here. The light house tour costs 17$, forget it! I come back along the river, by stewart and pepermint road. I stop in Flinders bay picnic area and jetty to take a shower and wash the clothes. From here I take the bicycle lane along the river, till Augusta downtown, where I enter by Ellis street. I see a few pelicans. I check my mails and lunch.
At midday I move, and follow Cave scenic road, undulating by the forest. After 15 km I turn on left to Hamelin bay, which is a nice place with 2 large beaches and a cliff island. I find water, but it isn't a place to camp, too busy.
I go back to Cave road, and after 7 km I turn on left in Maze road, Boranup drive. It is very hot, so I stop in the Boranup national park campsite, tables, toilet, but no water. At midnight new campers comes, and some are very noisy, talking and laughting loudly.


Boranup campsite - Boranup road - Cave road - Margaret river - Rapid pool 63

Again the campers are noisy from 6 am, so I awake early, pack all and move to Boranup lookout to take the breakfast, quiet and nice place with tables and toilet. Then I follow the Boranup gravel road, sandy, with 2 steep hills, by the forest, for 14 km. It has nothing particular, so I better get back to Cave road, which goes too by the foret, and it is sealed.
I am tired, so I decide to go straight to Margaret River town, and avoid Margaret River mouth. So I turn on right in Walcliffe road, which is very busy. But fortunately it has a separate bicycle lane. I enter by the recreational park. And just after I turn on right, in the commercial shopping center street, where is the bicycle shop. I am lucky, he can change right now the cable of the derailer, and the chain by the way. He finds so amazing the bicycle, and what I am doing, so he takes a lot of fotos of the bicycle and me. But he doesn't offer a coffe nor makes a down price. Australia is a one way world, a pity.
Then I go in the strand street, very busy with tourists, make shopping and lunch. The bus driver jokes with me, good. I feed the bottles in the baby change room of the toilet, and move.
I take the Bussel hgw, very busy, North, for a few km. I turn on right in Osmington road, undulating, by forest and farms land. It is a nice change, some opening views. I follow it 15 km and I turn on right in Canebreak road, gravel, very sandy, very corugated. I have to push the bicycle for the 6 km, till the campsite, Rapid national park pool.
It is a very nice place in the forest, with tables and toilet, but no water. the river makes a pool, where children are playing in water. The water is not hot, but not fresh, so it is very lovely to swim in, and very sensual, and relaxing.
Infortunately, a group of drunks makes a very lot of noise half of the night, first with very loud music, then with the cars, then shouting and schrieking, nearly fighting. At the end they move away.

Rapid Pool - Busselton - Capel 77

I want to experiment an other road, avoid the yesterday road, so rought. so I cross the river and follow straight, and then connect with South road. Well it is a lost of time, and 10 km for nothing, as in the end I come back to the Pool campsite. So I follow Canebreak road, which is really better now, I can cycle it, for 6 km. I join Chapman Hill road, sealed, by farms land, which I follow till Busselton. And funny thing, it is flat!
Busselton is very busy, with on land side a big industrial district, and on sea side numerous caravan parks. Between are houses and shops, all modern, no business roads, no strand, it looks more like a suburb entrance. I take a lunch, rock melon for once, and I join the beach.
All the tourists gather in the town beach, but Busselton have kilometers of wild empty beach. I take the bicycle lane, which goes along the beach, rounded by big architectural new houses, interesting but none has a sculpture. Infortunately there are only schrubs and sand, no place to camp in the shade. But there are 2 toilets with water on the way. At the harbour there is a big bicycle bridge to cross it.
At the end I cross the river, turn on Leyman road, I don't go in Forest road. I pass Wonerup, where there are a picnic area, in the forest, and some first settlement huts to visit, 10$. There are copy of course, the termites had eat the real ones long time ago.
I connect with Tuart road and national park, which goes by a very quiet forest, of Tuart eucalyptus trees, a local variety. There are 2 picnic area, but it is not allowed to camp, and I have the feeling the ranger wouldn't like to see me camping here. In the village, an old settlement with yet the old wood mill half abandonned, there is no place to camp too.
So I continue, and in the last part of Tuart road the forest was cut for mines, incommon metals, and farms. Then I connect with the very busy Bussel hgw, for a few km, till Capel.
Capel is a small town, sleeping in the heat by Sunday afternoon, but the IGA supermarket is open. it have a nice shade park in the centre, where I lunch and rest. Then I go to camp in the sport ground, in Spurr street.


Capel - Boyanup - Dardanup - Picton - Bunbury 50

From Capel I decide to avoid the Bussel hgw, and I follow the railway road, quiet, flat, by farms land. I arrive in Boyanup, little town with all services and sport ground.
I take the Boyanup Picton road, by Dardanup. It goes by farmland, but the forest on left side, where is the railway, is protected, so the canopy is rich. Infortunately the road doesn't have a shoulder, and is very busy with big trucks, so it is dangerous. i have several times to ride on the soft shoulder.
Dardanup is a village, with a store and an old church. Then from Picton till the river, there are 10 km of industrial and stores district, ugly, by the very busy higway. Fortunately there is a bicycle lane. I arrive in the centre, at the tourist office, benches without shade. I buy the Munda Biddi trail maps, and then I go to Neal and Thora home, warmshowers, where I will rest 1 day. I won't recommand them.

Australia 38 around the Blackwood river

around the Blackwood river

Shannon - Northcliffe - Pemberton 83

I continue first on the hgw 1 and then I turn on left in Moore road, gravel. I connect on right in Boorara road. There are soft hills by forest and farms land, till Northcliffe. In boorara tree, 1 km off the road, there is a nice picnic area, roof, toilet, table, but no water, and there is a very high tree. It was used as a fire tower, it had a shelter at the top, built by locals. And they stayed here, looking at all te countryside around, surveying the bush fires.
I go back in Boorara road, and follow it till Northcliffe. On the way I don't find the picnic area which should be 9 km after Boorara tree.
Northcliffe is a small town, library, store, and sport ground on Middleton road. I take a lunch and feed the bottles.
I take the hgw, North, and connect with Wheatley road, which I follow for 10 km. I turn on left in Orchid road, and 2 km after on right in River road. This one is a narrow one way trail, funny, smooth. It goes by the forest till the river, and the bridge is only for bicycles and pedestrians. I cross it, and I take the road climbing in front. After a short pushing, I continue till the end of this road, by soft easy hills.
Then I take Gully Spring road, by the forest, and it starts to be steep hills, for 12 km, till Pemberton. But I decide to camp before Pemberton, in Cascade picnic area. so I do a lot of detours, by Gloucester and Poer roads, I cross diggings and railway and trees which close these roads, and I arrive finally in Pemberton. I never found Cascade picnic area, must be at the top of the hill, by the pedestrian track.
In Pemberton I go straight to the sport ground where I camp, tired. Pemberton is a little town with all services.


Pemberton - Warren – Manijmup 65

I take the Vasse hgw, and then turn on left in Old Vasse road, and on left again in Warren Heartbreak trail. This trail goes by the forest, with very high trees. But it is very steep, up and down, and very slippery, by the peas looklike gravel layer, and I do nearly all the trail pushing the bicycle, or retaining it. It takes me about 2 hours.
I join again Old Vasse road, and then Vasse hgw, and I turn on right in Channybearup road, sealed, but with long steep hills. Well I can cycle all, this time. All that is mostly by the forest, some part wild, some part planted, with a few farms with fields.
I join the hgw 1 and I go to David and Camela home, warmshowers hosts. On Sunday David makes a cycle tour with other local cyclists, and I go with them. Well it is a little too long for me, 80 km, and a bit lonely. I don't understand when they speak together, and none really takes care about me. It is very more interesting to gossip about every day happening, than with a fool cycling the country. But I see nice country side, and we take fresh beer in one home, so it makes a nice day.

Manijmup - Glenoram refuge 20

As I am yet tired, I decide to make a very short day. I take the Munda Biddi trail, which starts very near David home. It goes by the forest, very nice and rather easy, using narrow smooth trails, undulating. And I arrive slowly at the refuge, with beautiful view on the hills overed with forest, warter, tables, balcony, where I stay and relax in the hammock.


Glenoram refuge - Donelly river - Jarrah Park 60

I continue to follow the Munda Biddi trail but it gets off narrow roads, and becomes just a path in the forest, zigzaguing and undulating, making thousands detours to visit each tree. That is very slow and tiring, a lot of effort for a short progress. It could be funny with a empty bicycle for a weekend, but it is boring with a loaded bicycle in a long trip.
So I get off when I join Gregory road, which I take on left, and I get in again just at Brook road cross, on left, to go to Donelly village. Here in the school there is a basic refuge to sleep, and some kangurus and emus stroll around the school, used to stay and be feeded by humans. there is a small store too.
I try to continue by back roads, but I get lost 2 times, so I come back to the village and follow again the Munda Biddi trail. It continues the same zigzags. I get off in Stalliard road, which I follow till Willow Spring picnic area and camping, just a table in fact. And then I take Austin road on right to join the main road. I take this one on right, till I cross the Bibbulum trail. I take on left and I follow it till the refuge. All that is by the forest, a bit hilly, easy. Bibbulum rail is very narrow, between weeds 2 m high, zigzaging too, so straigh it should be 3 km, and in fact it becomes 10 km. Well I have yellow rainwater, drinkable when boiled, and I meet a guy doing the trail. We have a nice talk. But in the end I better should have stayed in the picnic area along the main road.

Jarrah park - Wrighis bridge - Nannup - Canelrake picnic area 85

I have the plan to follow the Blackwood river. So from the refuge, I take Camela road, then Petunia road on left, and I join Wetherley road, very hilly and steep, which I follow till the end. I connect with Creek road on right, with about 5 steep hills, and a very steep downhill at the end, and I connect the main sealed road. All that is by the forest, nothing spectacular, and hot day.
I turn on left and follow the blackwood river. It is hilly, by forest and farms land, till Nannup, with nothing exciting. The river is narrow, with very brown water, because of the tannin from the trees. I take lunch and find rain water in a chalets motel closed for works. I could very well avoid all this detour, from the refuge till nannup, and go straight to Nannup by the sealed road 252.
Nannup is a little town, where I get my computer. I lunch and move away, by the Brockman hgw 10. There is a very good sport ground by this road, but I make a mistake, I don't stop to camp here. So i continue, by a very hot afternoon, and by a hilly steep road, for 20 km, till Longbottom road, where it should have been a picnic area. But there is nothing, perhaps it is by the gravel road 3 km before, at the bus stop ? So I continue 15 km more, with headwind, till the cross with a road going to Pemberton, and 500 m after the cross, there is a nice picnic area, where I camp, tables, but no water. I have a nice talk with 2 young european guys.
Well The forest canopy along that road is beautiful and rich, with banksias, paperbark, brush, ooak, acacia, etc..

Australia 37 Albany Shannon near the coast

Albany Shannon near the coast

Albany - Elleker 25

I continue along the sea, take the road Albany Denmark, by forest, along the railway. As I need petrol for the stove, I ask to someone in a house. He dont have, but he send me to Elleker, a few km ahead, where there is a store, after the bridge. There is also toilets and sport ground, before the bridge, where I camp.

Elleker - Torbay - Denmark - Scotdale road and Hall 57

From Elleker, after the bridge, I take the bicycle lane to Torbay, which uses the old ralway lane. It is 7 km by the forest,, till Torbay Hall. Then I join the sealed road to Denmark, pass Bornholm hall and Young store and Hall, 2 places to camp, and I join the hgw 1. And just after Hay River, I take again on right the bicycle lane, by forest and schrubs. It goes along the Wilson Inlettea forest trees, paperbark, acacias, pines, eucalyp, till Denmark river. Here I cross the bridge and turn on right going by the road tiill Denmark, which is very near.
I check my mail, and I discover my computer have gone back to Burnie, Tasmania, and fortunately the post office accepts to send it free till West Australia, thanks to Warmshowers hosts in Burnie.
Then I take Scotdale road, for 17 km, by the forest, and arrive in Scotdale Hall and tennis, where I camp.


Scotdale Hall - Mac Leod road - Willam Bay road - Rail trail - Bow Bridge - Giant road - Tingledale Hall 69

I awake late, 8 am, and continue the scenic drive, easy slow climb, by Karri forest and farms land. At the top there is a lookout on Point Hillier, a cliff with a small island, at the end of a large beach bay.
Then I join the main road for a few km, and turn on left to Willam Bay, 4 km by pepermint trees forest. It is a very turistic spot, full with cars, but no picnic table and no water. The beach is rounded by a wall of reefs, which makes like a pool, where children can play safely. And on the left Point Hillier is very visible.
I go back to the main road for a few km, and I turn on right in Happy Valley road till joining the railway trail. It is funny to ride, by farms land. But the fields are mostly hidden by schrubs and small trees. It is flat, I have backwind, and it is hot. The trail is basic but smooth, with a very few sandy patches. At the end, after crossing 2 gates, it bevomes grassy, I suppose only a few cyclists use it. Well it is a nice easy adventure.
Then I join the main road, hilly, windy, with 4x4 traffic, till Bow Bridge, which is just a road house. Here I turn on right, in Valley of Giants road, by farms land and forest. I follow 9 km, till finding on left Tingledale Hall, veranda, toilet, table, water but no drinkable, where I camp. A caravan driver stops to camp too, and he gives me water.


Tingledale Hall - Nornalup - Walpole - Crystal Spring campsite 40

I continue the scenic drive, and arrive in the Tree Top Walk. It is a boardwalk in the trees, 600 m long, going till the nivel of 40 m, and costs 12$. I really enjoy it, the sensation to be so hight, near the head of trees, and the boardwalk in steel, oscillating. For once I don't feel cheated. And with comes an other atraction, a walk in a forest with big high trees, with big holes in the trunk, made by fire or animals. They are like huts, one can stay in the hole.
Then I join Nornalup, which is just a place with hotels, along the bank of the river, toilet and tables but no drinkable water, and not good to camp. I follow the hgw 1 till Walpole, little town, tourist office, park, supermarket, and sport ground, and water! I stay a long time, shopping and taking lunch.
Then I continue by the hgw, nearly without traffic, but with long hills, by the forest. I join Crystal Spring campsite, it is already more than 2 pm, and very hot, so I decide to camp here. It is a nice quiet place, 7$, with yellow rainwater, better boil it.


Crystal Spring campsite - Shannon 53

I contiue by the hgw 1, by forest, with very high eucalyptus, and a very interesting canopy, banksia, brush, paperbark, acacia, oak, a lot blooming.
For 10 km it is flat, till Mount Bounder, where there is a nice picnic area to camp, table toilet but no water. Then it becomes hilly but yet easy, and after 11 km there is the turn to Fernhooks Falls campsite, which is 6 km on right.
I don't go, I follow the hgw. It starts a long climbing, followed by 3 steep hills, and I arrive in Shannon picnic area and campsite, shower, very quiet, but no drinkable water. There is a little refuge, where I sleep for free. I do all the walks, in 1h30, nice trip in the forest around.

Australia 36 Stirling range and going till Albany

Stirling range and going till Albany

Fitzerald picnic - Jerramungup - Ongerup 75

I ask myself if I cross again the swamp with shrubs land till Bremer bay, well it is 100 km of gravel road without water, but I could beg water to the caravan drivers in the picnic area. In fact it starts to rain heavily, so I got the answer, and I follow the hgw. For 35 km the road continues hilly, by shrubs land.
Jerreamungup is a little town, supermarket, sport ground, library.
After the road flatters and goes undulating by farmland till Ongerup, 40 km. Fortunatly I have backwind and the road is rounded by the local native bush, blooming.
Ongerup is a village, and I go to the sport ground, near the caravan park, where I camp. It is very windy, but there is a veranda back of the building, propecting me and the tent, and the showers and toilets are open! So I got a shower and I wash the clothes, luxury.


Ongerup - Borden - Stirlang range campsite 75

Till Borden and some more, the road continues undulating by fields and farms. The sky is cloudy. Then it enters in the National park, undulating till the campsite, by shrubs and forest. The campsite is used by commun caravan drivers, so they are noisy, and I feel lonely. And It rains with thunder all night. I have a bad sleep.


Stirling Range - Scenic Drive - Kendenup 72

As no one seems to hike a peak, I decide to move and I start late, following the Scenic Drive. The road is rather smooth, gravel, with long steep hills, going all along the range, joining the peaks. It is beautiful, with the bush blooming all colours, strange little trees, shrubs, and the peaks with cliffs or volcan looklike.
Then I turn on left in Red Gum pass road, enter in farmland, and then I turn on right, way to Albany hgw, by a sealed road, till Kendenup center. At the cross after the railway, I ask my way at a family, and I discover they don't know reading. But fortunatly they drive me to the store. And here the teller makes me a very clear plan, very nice guy. The store itself has just the basic, and double price. So I follow gravel roads, fortunatly mostly downhill, for 8 km, till Fred home, warmshowers. They did the house by themselves, in ground with hay, dry toilets, rain water, dam, vegetables and fruits. I spend a day resting.


Kendenup - Mount Baker - Porongurup - Napier 60

I join the very busy Albany hgw, just for 15 km, till Mount baker. It is cloudy with showers. Mount Baker is a little town, with a good sport ground at the North entrance. I make some shopping, and a couple invites me for a coffe.
Then I turn on right to Castle Rock national park, and Porongurup, undulating by farms land. On right I have the view of a little range with some cliff. Porongurup is just a caravan park and a hotel. I stop a little further in Castle Rock picnic area. And I go up hiking till the top of the range, 1h30 go and go back, by the forest. At the top are a few boulders, and a awesome lookout on all the farmland around.
I chat a little with other visitors, and I move. I turn on right way to Albany, undulating by the forest, and I stop 25 km before Albany, in Napier comunity hall, on right. Some people play tennis, and the boss accepts I camp here. roof, table, rain water, but no toilet.


Napier - Albany 30

I follow the road, undulating by forest, eucalyptus, acacias, oaks, shrubs, flowers, till the info bay. here there is a motobike meeting, with old motobikes.
And here too, I turn on left in Mercer road, which I follow till the round about at the end. Here I turn on right, and immediatly take the bicycle lane. It drives me by shrubs land till the coast, and then along the coast, sometimes by a boardwalk, till the center of Albany. On the way there are some picnic area with roof, possible place to camp, and a park along the sea, with toilets, water, roof table, and showers, but not a good place to camp.
It is cold and cloudy, but fortunatly I meet in front the tourist office a couple of cyclists. We stay all afternoon gossiping, It is good. They indicate me I could camp at the top of the hill.
But it is yet raining, so I go to take a shower, just at the cross with the commercial street, and I decide to move. I take the road along the sea, with picnic area, but I won't recommand to camp in Albany, too turistic to avoid the rangers. So I continue till Elleker, 20 km ahead, sport ground, toilet, store.

Australia 35 Along the coast

Along the coast

Quagi Beach - South Coast hgw - Munglinup 62

I go to see the beach. The campsite is full, with caravans and families. I take a cold shower, and feed the bottles. The beach has nothing special, so I could avoid that detour, about 25 km go and return. I go back to the hgw. The station in front, at the cross, is abandonned, so it could be a nice place to camp, but no water. I take here the breakfast.
I follow the hgw, same than yesterday. There is a picnic area in Creed Corner road, where I stop to rest, roof and tables, no water. I have to pitch the tent, as there are so many flies.
Munglinup is a village, with just a roadhouse, no shop, and a picnic area with tables, water and toilets. but too much roadtrains stop, too noisy. So I return back 1 km, to the sport field, just before the village, good place.

Munglinup - Munglinup beach - Springale road - Mason bay road 80

I go back for 4 km to join South Fuss road on right, way to the coast, and then I turn on right, way East, in Springale road. All that are sealed roads, by fields. But the road is rounded by West bush, laurel, acacia, oalk, banksia, paperbark, and other weeds and small trees, all bloming, with all colours, red, blue, yellow, pink, orange, white. That is marvellous.
I turn on left to Munglinup beach, 5 km of gravel road corugated, but using all the lane, I always find a way smooth and stout. The beach is nice, protected by a reef from sharks and waves, and I swim a while. I take a shower and beg water to the caravan drivers.
I come back in Springale road way East, which becomes gravel. I am in the Olfield river mouth, protected area, so it is full of shrubs and small local trees, and flowers. But the road is outside of the park, undulating by fields, rounded by the local bush. On East I pass the large lake Shaster, mostly swampy.
Then after about 35 km, I turn on left in Mason Bay road, way South. It is the same countryside. I see on left a gate to a field, it is clear, so I camp here, between the road and the fence, behind shrubs. Today it is cloudy with short showers here and there.


Mason Bay road - Hopetoun - Kundip picnic area 87

After 9 km more in Mason Bay road, I turn on right in South Coastal road, which I follow till Hopetoun, 32 km. The road is sealed for the last 17 km. First it goes by shrubs land, then by laurels and paperbark forest, with lakes on right, and then shrubs or forest, and flowers bloming, along the sea, up on the dune, starting from 13 miles beach. From here there are a lot of entrances to the beach, and the sound of the waves.
Hopetoun is a small town, but with a very good store and a sportfield. I take a lunch on the table close to the store, and locals talk to me, which is rather uncommon.
I plan to take Hamersey road, by the national park. So 1 km after the round about, I turn on left in a undulating sealed road by shrubs and local forest. But 10 km after I ask to drivers, and I discover the road is closed. So I come back, and I take the sealed hilly road to Ravenstorpe, which goes by the forest and shrubs land, protected. So it is rather interesting. I stop in a picnic area, Flee Creek, very small and uncomfortable, table and toilet. So I continue 12 km more, till the large Kundip picnic area, table and toilet, but no water. Well there is a hut just neightbour, where it is possible to beg water. And I discover there is a walking trail, the old railway, from Hopetoun till Ravenstorpe, by the bush. I am 20 km before Ravenstorpe. may be it is possible to cycle it.
Kundip - Ravenstorpe - Fitzerald river picnic area 101

The day starts by 8 km of climbing, and then it is undulating till Ravenstorpe, mostly by native shrubs land, and laurel forest in the end.
Ravenstorpe is a little town, with sport ground and a basic supermarket. The one in Hopetoun is better.
Then I take the South Coast hgw 1 to Albany. It is hilly, with very long up and down, not very steep generally. It is mostly climbing, I rekon. The day is cloudy with short showers. The road goes part by native shrubs, part by laurel and paperbark forest. There are no farms, no water, till Jerramungup, 115 km ahead.
Fitzerald is just a cross, no house here. And just after Fitzerald river, there is a large picnic area, tables, but no water. I am 80 km after Ravenstorpe.

Australia 34 around Esperance

around Esperance

PERTH

I stay one day in Perth with Michael, warmshowers host. Perth downtown has a few antic buildings and streets, and 2 mail streets, which are very busy today, because of the sales. i buy a new matress and saunter around, and after lunch i climb to the botanic garden. it is very small but full with local trees and schrubs, and a awsome view on the business district, the town, and the 2 lakes, and the hills in the distance. Michael gives me a bicycle shirt, yellow with kangurus flowers, nice.
there are 2 bicycle lanes, one along the coast, and the other along the river.


Esperance Great Ocean Drive 50

I take the bus to Esperance, and arrive at 6 pm. all shops are closed already, included the supermarkets. so i go to the sport ground to camp, and it is already full of caravans. well I am tired, so I don't think. and in the early morning i pay it, as the caretaker comes and asks me 22$ for the night. it is a bad start for a day, isen't it! at least i take a shower.
well i go shopping, and then i take a breakfast along the coast, behind the tourist office. then i move, and start the hilly great ocean drive, by the bicycle lane. the views are remarquable, exciting. for 15 km there are white sand beaches, very blue sea, cliffs and bluffs of yellow and brown limestones, islands, and all around shrubs, all sort of greens. it is surely one of the best beaches of the world.
then the trail gets off the seaside, and joins a large salt lake rounded by private properties with big trees. and in the end it joins downtown.
here i decide to go and see the lakes which are on fisher road neightbour. there are with soft water, swampy, and rounded by shrubs. it seems me unwise to camp close, as it is a national park. but just before i have seen a football field. so i go there, and ask to the caretaker. yes i can stay, veranda, shower, toilet, all free.

Esperance - Willie Bay - South Coast hgw - Quagi beach 96

I awake early, so i decide to visit Willie bay, 10 km east of Esperance. it looks like a horse shoe, sandy white beach, with dune in the distance. it is the start of the 22 km of trail on the beach till mount legrand national park, and each 500m there is a 4*4 going to that point. it is so busy i decide not to go.
so i go back to Esperance, and wait till 10 am for the library opening. i meet here a local cyclist, who pretends he did the cross Brisbane to Perth by gravel roads. after a nice talk, i shake my mails, but yet no news of samsung for my computer.
at 11 am i take the South Cast hgw. after 10 km I turn on left to Mortijinup lake. At this cross there is a picnic area, Peace Park, where to camp for free, it should be the best place to visit Esperance and around! And 2 km ahead, there is a nice lake, and a very beautiful picnic area, roof, tables water, with a lot of tipical west bush.
I return to the Hgw, undulating, with north wind, and in the heat. I go slowly, by farmland, crops and fields. I ask water in a farm, and the woman answers me if there are ferrys between France and England. When I explain that nowdays there is a train and a channel under the sea, she hardly understands.
65 km from Esperance, I turn on left in Farrels road to Quagi beach. But it is too far, by a hilly gravel road, corugated, and part with a layer of sand. So I camp on the left side, between the road and the fence, just before the sandy part.

Australia 33 THE SOUTH WEST: From Esperance till Albany and till Perth

THE SOUTH WEST: From Esperance till Albany and till Perth

ESPERANCE - ALBANY – PERTH


Esperance Great Ocean Drive 50
Esperance - Willie Bay - South Coast hgw - Quagi beach 96
Quagi Beach - South Coast hgw - Munglinup 62
Munglinup - Munglinup beach - Springale road - Mason bay road 80
Mason Bay road - Hopetoun - Kundip picnic area 87
Kundip - Ravenstorpe - Fitzerald river picnic area 101
Fitzerald picnic - Jerramungup - Ongerup 75
Ongerup - Borden - Stirlang range campsite 75
Stirling Range - Scenic Drive - Kendenup 72
Kendenup - Mount Baker - Porongurup - Napier 60
Napier - Albany 30

TOTAL

Albany - Elleker 25
Elleker - Torbay - Denmark - Scotdale road and Hall 57
Scotdale Hall - Mac Leod road - Willam Bay road - Rail trail - Bow Bridge - Giant road -Tingledale Hall 69
Tingledale Hall - Nornalup - Walpole - Crystal Spring campsite 40
Crystal Spring campsite - Shannon 53
Shannon - Northcliffe - Pemberton 83
Pemberton - Warren - Manijmup 65
Manijmup - Glenoram refuge 20
Glenoram refuge - Donelly river - Jarrah Park 60
Jarrah park - Wrighis bridge - Nannup - Canelrake picnic area 85
Canebreak - Kudardup - Augusta 56
Augusta - Cape Leuwin - Cave road - Hamelin bay - Boranup campsite 50
Boranup campsite - Boranup road - Cave road - Margaret river - Rapid pool 63
Rapid Pool - Busselton - Capel 77
Capel - Boyanup - Dardanup - Picton - Bunbury 50
Bunbury – Brunswick junction – Bela road – Wellington dam road – river road - Mundabiddi – refuge 67
Munda biddi refuge – Collie – Harris dam 52
Harris dam – Collie – Mornington road – Weird road – Kent road – Hoffman Mill campsite 94
Hoffman Mill – Nanga road – Munda biddi refuge 31
Refuge – Munda Biddi – Nanga road – Dwellingup – Park road – Dandalup refuge 58
Dandalup refuge – Dandalup – Armadale 115
Armadale – Brookton highway - Canning road – Karinyah refuge 35
Karinyah refuge – Kalamuda – Perth 108

TOTAL

Australia 32 way back to Hobart by the East coast

way back to Hobart by the East coast

Cranbrook – Bicheno – Swansea 80

Here starts a hill, 5 km up and 5 km down, in the forest, pine, eucalyptus, acacias and weeds. At the top there is a beautiful lookout on Freyciney lagoon, which is like a large lake with mountains in the distance.
Then I enter in Bicheno, and at the entrance there are a picnic area, 2 tables, and a beautiful view on the sea, the orange rocks, and waves passing by a hole like geysers.
Bicheno is a very little town, and I discover there are no bus lines following the coast by the highway A3. So I decide to go back now, and forget St Helen coast road.
I go back till Swansea, which is a little touristic town along the sea. At the get out there are a picnic area, shelter, table and toilet, along the river, where I camp.


Swansea – Triabunna – Orford – Buckland 77

The road goes inland by farms land till spicky bridge. It is an old stone bridge. Then the road follows the sea, with some small beaches. I stop in Mayfield bay, free campsite along the sea, with beach. It is very windy, but the picnic area, tables, is protected by shrubs. There are a lot of caravans. There are toilets but no water.
The next day the road continues inland till Triabunna. Here I go to the harbor, with some fishing boats. I lunch with fish and chips. There is a super market, but no place to camp.
I continue till Orford. And just in front the golf, before the town, along the beach, there is an abandoned camping, with toilets and water, where to camp. I cross the bridge, go to the super market, and go at the picnic area and sport ground on left. It is a nice place, but very windy and cold. So I move.
The road follows the river by easy climbing for 9 km through the forest. Then it flatters by farms land, and undulates till Buckland. I turn on right in the village, and at the end of the street is the sport field, toilet and water, where I camp.


Buckland – Sorell – Airport 50

I have to cross 2 gaps, by 17 km of steep climbing. Then it comes a quick downhill and then it flatters. All that is by forest and farms land.
Sorell is a little town. I decide to camp in the sport ground at the entrance.
Next day I cross the long bridge, follow the coast a bit, and arrive at the caravan park in front the airport. I camp here. Tomorrow I take the plane to Perth.

Australia 31 joining the East coast

joining the East coast

Wilburville – Interlaken – Timbridge – Ross 86

I follow the gravel road, and just before the river I turn on right in a narrow gravel trail. After a while it becomes a ground trail downhill, and cross a bridge and a grid. Here it becomes a tumbled stone and ground path, it looks like deserving a farm, but yes it is the good road! It crosses grids and fields, grows better, then becomes gravel road again, and joins the Interlaken road at it start.
I turn on left and follow the Interlaken gravel road. After 3 long up and down, I suddenly see the lakes. But I have yet 10 km mostly downhill, till the lakes. All that is by forest or grass land.
Lake Sorel is closed for fishing, and so the Dago picnic area; but I lunch in the cottage club neighbor. I don’t find water. The lakes are big, but not really scenic, rounded by hills with forest.
I continue. It comes 5 km easy uphill, and 10 km very steep downhill, I won’t like to do it up! There are beautiful views on the large valley down. It is all by the forest.
I enter in the very large and flat valley, crops and fields, a bit sad. After 10 km, I join Tambridge, a few houses, where I ask for water.
I turn on left in the main road, rather a lot of traffic. I have 15 km undulating with head wind till Cross.
Ross is a little antic town, worth a visit for a few stone buildings and a bridge. I go to the sport ground and camp.


Ross – Campbell – B34 – A2 – Cranbrook 82

I have light rain today. I follow the A1 till Campbell town, by farms land. Campbell is a little town, all services but no shelter for the rain. There a free campsite at the entrance, near the red bridge and the river.
I decide to take on left the B34 way to Swansea. I meet 10 km steep climbing by farms land. Then it enters in the forest, with a lot of up and downhill the top, 640 m high, and the cross to the waterfalls. At this cross there is a picnic area, just a table.
I follow the road, 20 km downhill, till the cross with the highway A1.
I choose here to turn on left, way to North. It continues a bit hilly, by fields. I arrive in Cranbrook, which are a few houses and an antic church. I camp here, in the yard of the church, too tired.

Australia 30 First part of the Lakes trail

First part of the Lakes trail

Forth – C132 – Wilmot – Moina – Gowrie park 59

It is a hard day with a lot of climbings. I take the C132 along the river. It starts by 11 km of easy climbing by farms land and forest. But then come 19 km steep to very steep till Wilmot by the forest. And that continues by 7 km steep and 7 km very steep till Moina by farms land and plantations of eucalyptus.
Here I take on right the C136 to Sheffield, 5 km steep downhill till the bridge, and of course then 5 km steep climbing, till the cross with the C140. The end is better, 5 km downhill till the Gowrie park and free campsite.
That entire trip is beautiful, all by the forest or nice farms land, with lookout on cliffs and Mount St Claude from Wilmot till the end.
In the campsite a family invites me for dinner and play football.


Gowrie Park – C137 – Moole creek – Deloraine 60

Today is sunny and without wind. It is undulating for 11 km till the cross to Mole creek on right, by farms land. Then come 7 km of easy climbing till the cross with the C159, yet by farms land. Then come 5 km steep climb and 5 km steep downhill, till Mersey River, by the forest. And it ends undulating by farms land till Deloraine.
There are a picnic area, a recreation reserve and a super market in Moole.
Deloraine is a small town, and there is a free campsite after the river and the railway on left in the race course ground. But the pony club on Lake Road is really better.


Deloraine – Lake road – Breona 42

There are 16 km of easy climbing, and then 16 km of very steep climbing but all cycling, till the top, 1224 m high. It takes me 4h30. It is all by the forest, at the start eucalyptus, which becomes rain forest. There are also beautiful views on the high peaks and cliffs on each side.
At the top there is a lake with pencil pine trees, unique in the world, and very colorful alpine grass and flowers. The walk is worth a visit. The lake is rounded by ruined stone hills and boulders.
Then the road goes down, but changes gravel, so I go slowly. There is a marvelous lookout on the great lake. Then I join Breona, a few houses; I see a caravan on left, and I join it to camp. I drink the water from the lake.

Breona – Meina – Wilburville 57

The road goes along the lake undulating, partly by eucalyptus forest, and partly by alpine weeds and grass land. I can see ruined stone peaks in the distance. There is no place to camp.
At the cross before Meina there is a big tourist center, perhaps there is a shop and petrol in. Moina is just hotels and houses, no place to camp or stop.
So I continue, turn on left way to lake Arthur, and on right to Wilburville. The lake is not very scenic. I camp in the fire house yard. In fact there is a free campsite a little further along the lake near the river.

Australia 29 Queenstown till Burnie swamps forests and coast

Queenstown till Burnie swamps forests and coast

Queenstown – Zeehan – Corinna 90

Till the cross to Tullah, the road is mostly steep through rain forest. Then till Zealan there are a lot of steep up and down to cross each creek, yet by forest or shrubs. It is very hard.
In Zeehan the supermarket is at the entrance, and the centre is 2 km after, with a nice park with picnic area.
Till Corinna, it is mostly by grass land and swamps, with some peaks which stop the rain coming from the sea. It is a rather easy undulating with a few climbings. There is a beautiful view on the sea near Granville, just passing Tasman river.
Just after the cross to Corinna, there is a small and basic picnic area. Then start the gravel road, for 12 km, tiring up and down, till the ferry 10$.
Corinna is just a few houses, a hotel and a camping 20$, in the forest, along the river. It is a very nice place to rest, with some walks. By the night wallabies tried to open my pannier with food. I have to put it in the tent.


Corinna – Lindsay river 57

The gravel road starts easy and nice, by the rain forest, undulating for 8 km. Then it becomes too hard for 50 km. there are very steep climbings and down hills, and I push the bicycle nearly all the way. The countryside is not very interesting, mostly swamps and grass land, with in the distance burnt eucalyptus. The road is smooth, but with a very slippery layer of pea gravel. In details comes 10 km hard climbing, and 10 lm easy undulating till Donadson River, where I lunch. It is possible to camp here.
After come 10 km hard climb again, 7 km undulating, 10 km hard climb, and 12 km easy undulating.
I stop and camp at Lindsay River. I ask water at a car driver. I have seen 5 cars today.
I recommend avoiding that road, to difficult, and without real interest.


Lyndsay river – C 214 – Kanunna bridge 40

The road becomes large, easy, nearly flat, but yet with a layer of pea gravel. The 21 km till the cross are through the same harsh grass land or swamps, with groups or little forests of eucalyptus in the distance. Balfour is nothing but an impossible track. There is a picnic area at the cross, a table.
Then I turn on right to Kanunna Bridge. Comes the sealed road, 18 km a bit hilly with deeps, by the rain forest. I cross the bridge, upon a beautiful river and I stop and camp in the picnic area which is just after the bridge, roof, table, water. It rains all afternoon.
The road C218 is no through road now, as the bridge is broken.

Kanunna bridge – Smithton – Forest - Port Latta 67

It is cloudy and I have strong head wind from East. It starts by 7 km in the rain forest, and then 30 km in farms land with groups or plantations of eucalyptus.
Smithton is a little town and I visit it under the rain. There is a nice picnic area near the sea, at the end. But there is no place to camp.
I take the highway A2 way to Stanley, and turn on right to Forest road C221. It is a bit hilly, by farms land.
Forest is a village, with a store and a beautiful sport ground to camp.
I join again the A2, cross Black River bridge, and there are 2 campsites in the National Reserve, 2$, with toilets, tables shelter and water, along the beach, wonderful.


Port Latta – Wynyard – Burnie 67

Port Latta is a big fabric of magnetite. Then come 20 km very hilly, from Hellejer till Sister Creek, by boring farms land. I suggest making a detour to avoid it, and follow a nicer way by the Dip ranges, catching the C225 at Black river Bridge, going till Dip Falls, and joining the A2 in Montumana.
In Boat harbor I turn on left to visit the village along the sea, but it is very deep with a steep down hill, so I forget it. I don’t want to push the bicycle up.
Then I take the Light house cap road on left, hilly by poppies fields, with beautiful lookout on Rocky cape.
In Wynyard, little town, there is a picnic area along the river. And then the A2 goes by a nice country side till Somerset.
I arrive in Burnie, a big town with no place to camp, and I go to John and Prue home ( warmshowers).
Burnie – Pinguin – Ulverstone – Forth 42

I follow the coast by the A2 till Sulfur creek. Then I take the coast road till Ulverstone, beautiful beaches, rocks and islands. There is a beautiful picnic area in Penguin, with a funny painting.
To camp there are the Memorial house and sport ground in Sulfur, a picnic area in Penguin at the entrance, and along the river in Ulverstone.
In Ulverstone I take the beach road, and at the end the bicycle lane on the other side of the railway. It goes till Turners beach.
Just before, I turn on right on the B19, till Forth, by lovely farms land, easy undulating.
In Forth I camp in the sport ground.

Australia 28 Hobart till Queenstown Lakes and Mines

Hobart till Queenstown Lakes and Mines

Hobart – Granton – Bridgewater – New Norfolk – Gretna 67

I stay in Hobart 3 days. Well the first day I flight from Melbourne, it was a little complicated, as all the airport electronic broke down. So it wasn’t anymore possible to register and make the check in, except handle writing. I had to argument a little with the teller who did that, to have my check in do in time. Or I would miss the plane. Well in the end the plane goes off with 1h30 mn delay, so I suppose the captain have to wait for all the passengers to be in.
Anyway, when I arrive at Hobart airport, the parents of Rosie pick e up, to the house of Rosie and Stuart (warmshowers), the higher on the slope of the hill, at the foot of the forest, and with an incredible lookout on the bay and the sea ahead. Rosie, Stuart, and the four children were always happy, smiling and laughthing, and always tried to make me as comfortable as possible. I make a quick tour downtown in the afternoon. The next day I climb at the top of Mount Wellington, 1200m. And the last day I saunter downtown, visiting the shops and the museum, eating fish and oysters in the harbor.
Today is a sunny day, but rather windy. I go back downtown, with the bicycle and all the stuff that time. I meet there a couple of cyclists who had a 6 months journey in Europe. Then I go to catch the bicycle lane along the railway (ask to the tourist office). I follow it through the suburb for 14 km, till Bariendale, as Hobart looks like an octopus, with very long and narrow suburbs. Then I take the main road B36, which goes till Granton, through fields, crops and some wineries.
I cross the bridge and follow the B10 till New Norfolk. It is along the river, between the hills, and there are some lookout on the river and the swamp, with ducks, black swans and a pelican.
In New Norfolk I see a picnic area along the river with toilet, a good place to camp, but no table. So I cross the bridge to go downtown, where I find a park with tables and a very small shelter, where I lunch, protected from the wind. I ask to the tourist office which way is the best, and they don’t really know, tell it is the same scenery. As I met before the bridge 2 cyclists, who told me there is no traffic on the main road, I choose it. So I cross again the bridge, and turn left, on the road A1.
I follow till Gretna, along the river, through fields and crops, by an undulating road. In Gretna near the end there is the sport ground with a picnic area, toilet, table, roof, water, where I camp, protected from the wind.

Gretna – Hamilton – Ouse – Lake Deer - Lake Echo 76

It is sunny for the morning, and then cloudy in the afternoon, but the light rain starts only when I stop, at 4 pm. Till Ouse I follow the man road A10, through fields and scattered farms. There is a long and easy climbing till Hamilton, then it is undulating till Ouse. Hamilton is a village, and has a picnic area with table roof and toilet. Ouse is a little town, and there is a picnic area with table and roof, but it is prohibited to camp. Well I think no one would care for a cyclist.
Just after Hamilton I turn on left for 1 km, just to see Meadow Bank Lake, beautiful. There is a picnic area here, with roof table and toilet.
A few km after Ouse, I have enough of the fields’ scenery, so I decide to turn on right road C176, to Lake Deer and Lake Echo. The gravel road is smooth, but mostly rather steep climbing for 31 km. the scenery is beautiful, through the forest, part wild part eucalyptus plantation, with a few farms and fields. There are lookouts on the hills covered with forest on left, and on the hills covered with grass fields on right. For a long while the forest is mostly eucalyptus, laurel and acacia, with weeds blooming, white or yellow flowers. Before Deer Lake, the soil changes granitic, and I see fern trees and an other tree I don’t know, with yellow flowers. The eucalyptus have red leaves and some have pink flowers.
Deer Lake is large, blue water rounded by hills covered with green forest. I don’t see any place to camp. Then there is a steep climbing along the water tube for a few km, and it flatters when it joins the canal, till lake Echo. Here there are little places to camp, but no facilities. It starts to rain. The lake is very large, rounded by red eucalyptus.
I pitch the tent, eat and go to bed. It is too cold.

Lake Echo – Lake Bradys – Derwent Bridge – Donaghys Hill 105

From the lake Echo, I join the road C173, where I turn on left way to Ouse, make about 2 km more, and turn on right in Dee portal road. And I raise the lake Bradys, which is large rounded by hills covered by forest. There is a nice place to camp with grass. Then I follow the road and quickly I join the main road A10. All that part is smooth gravel road, with a lot of up and down, through the forest.
I take it on right, way to Queenstown. I make a short stop at the lake Bronte, which have a dirty picnic area, table and roof. Then the road enters in a flat area, with fields and swamps, undulating till Derwent Bridge. That place is just a hotel and a road house with a very basic grocery. There I decide to have a look at the Lake St Clair, which on right 5 km ahead. When I arrive there I discover I have to pay 12 $ just to enter in the national park. And there is no way to escape, there is a big tourist house to go through, and everywhere it is fenced. Well just before the house on right there is the boat ramp, I go here and have a glance at the lake, nothing special.
So I come back to the main road, and I continue. On the book “free camping in Tasmania” it is indicated a place to camp 4 km after the cross, take on left the second boat ramp till the lake, 800m ahead. The road climbs for 15 km, through forest and swamps, with good lookout on the peaks around. At the top there is a small car bay with a lookout, it is possible to camp here.
Then come 18 km of quick downhill, till Franklin river bridge and picnic area. I thought to camp here, but it is forbidden. I do the short walk, and I have a bad feeling, so I decide to continue.
On the map a campsite is indicated, about 10 km ahead. It continues downhill, but with flat parts and some sort climbing. So it is not so easy. After 1 hour, I yet don’t see any campsite, so I decide to camp at the first site. Well as it is all swamp or dense forest, it last a while to find it. But on left, suddenly I see a free and clean area, which is used to stock gravel for the road. I camp here.


Donaghys Hill – Queenstown 50

Well it is a short day, sunny and no wind. The road continues undulating or easy climbing, with a few short steep climbs, till the mine, through the forest and swamps. The walk at the waterfall is nice, with special trees, beech myrtle trees, huons pines, and sassafras, which come before the separation of the continents. These trees grow too in South America.
Just before the mine, I ask water at the farm on right, nice old couple. Then there is a steep and long climbing, and a very dangerous and winding downhill till Queenstown. Here the hill don’t have anymore forest, it is all cut because of the mine.
Queenstown is a little town, with a funny museum, and an oval at the entrance, where I decide to camp.