Afrique 15 - LESOTHO 2

 only fotos

Afrique 16 – LESOTHO 3

 Underberg till Mokoklong

Nicely Janie brings us till Sani lodge, 21 km before Sani pass, at the start of the gravel road. we start cycling at 10 h30 am. Well it becomes quickly too steep to cycle, and we push the bicycles. Also we have a strong head wind, which makes the pushing very hard. We are going very slow, mostly pushing hard, and time to time we have to stop, waiting for the end of a slam of wind, bringing dust everywhere. We are along a stream, which is deep down, and the slopes are abrut. they are covered with yellowish grass, with some small trees. A bush fire destroyed a large land last year. We have some beautiful view of the top of the mountain and on the last part of the climb. A few cars overpasse us, very surprised to see us. The track is very rought, with stones and corrugated. In the afternoon we meet 2 cyclists, who are finishing the trip cape north till cape south. We chat a long while and exchange blog adresses. They would continue doing Ushuaia till Alaska. We finish the day at 4pm, at the South African border, 13 km today. We ask the permit to camp behind the toilet, no problem. As the police closes the gates by night and keeps a guard, it is perfectly safe.
Second day the track is as rought and more steep, but we get no wind. So it is a bit less dificult. And fortunately, a car driver stops, and offers to put our luggages in the malle on the roof of the car, to bring them till the top. He have in 3 children and wife, and 4 children bikes behind on a rack. We continue pushing, and with the altitude there is no more trees, only grass. The stream is very narrow now. We feed the bottles with water at a small waterfall before the last part, the zigzags. We have now scenic.views.on all the gorge, between two abrut slopes with the valley hidden by fog. The grass makes beautifil colors, from yellow to orange and brown. We take some rest before the.last step. The zigzag part is more steep, and the track worst. Fortunately we are lighter. And the altitude makes breathing harder, and the heart overbeating quickly. So me I have to mark a lot of stops to let heart and respiration quieter. Martine doesnt suffer so much, and go ahead. She rises the top long before me. I hardly finish, stopping each minutes, and the children of the family encourage me clapping, from the balcony of the top lodge and restaurant. At the border I join Martine, who is chatting with an other family. They offer us an ice coca, very good. Then I go to the custom for the entrance visa in Lesotho, and we say goodbye to one family to join the other one and pick up our luggages. After a lot of thanks and fotos we say goodbye to everyone. We go to the reception of the lodge to ask for a room, but all they propose is a chalet for 200$ and a dinner for 40$, or a room in the backpacker, with the toilet in an other building, we would have to walk outside to go to the toilet by frozing night, for 50$, and noway to negociate. So we decide to go camping at the next village. In fact we do only 1.5 km and we stop at a farm, with a water tap. Yes we can camp. We pitch the tent and start to cook the supper, when the mama comes and proposes us a room. We accept, unpich the tent, and go early in the small room. In fact it was not a good idea, but hard to refuse. The room misses aeration and smells dust, and the beds are narrow and very incomfortable.
Next day we continue early. the gravel road is not so bad and almost flat in a large plain. After 5 km we cross a river and a village. Then starts the climbing of the black mountain, 500 m high in a few steep km. the mountain is not black but covered by grass yellow and green. We are going slow, but easier than Sani pass. Suddenly a young shepherd comes down by the slope and push my bicycle with me. We are going quick now. Then he helps Martine, then me again, nearly till the top. Then he has to get back to his cattle. So he says goodbye and doesnt ask anything. We cross the top, but we have yet one km up till the real end. From here we see mountains and mountains on right, and on left all the large plain with a river, and in the distance the range of peaks which makes the border of Lesotho. Then comes the very long down hill till Mokoklong. First it is steep, and then smooth. It goes by a very narrow valley between two abrupt slopes covered with grass. Mostly there is just room for a stream. Sometimes it becomes larger and gives place to some fields with willows, and a few houses. villages are uper in the hills, mostly rondavels houses. Well we are too tired to apreciate the beauty of that canyon. Also all the road is in work, the Chinese are making a real tared road, throwing rocks and boulders anywhere in the bed of the stream. They come with their own red trucks and machines, and employ locals for basic works. And also the willows arent yet with leaves, so it is sadder. We continue down for 35 km about, till a village named St James. Here on the hill there is a lodge, but too hard to access by the steep road on left. There are a lot of houses at this cross, and later I understand that is the way to Maseru, but no sign at all. Well we continue, and quickly we meet the asfalt. At the T junction, we turn on right. After 5 km up and down we arrive at the town of Mokoklong. First we check Senqu hotel, which everyone recommands, but it is full. So we continue, crossing all the town, till the hospital and Mokoklong hotel. Well it looks a bit expensive, 55$ but we have no choice. In fact the breackfast is included, and it is a real meal, and good. For supper they propose a buffet, very good too. So we decide to stay two nights, and in the end they gives us a discount. Mokoklong isnt a beautiful town, just poor shops and small basic buildinds along the main road. but the life is quiet and tipical, without beggars. We feel comfortable.
Next day we go back to the T junction but we continue straigh on. The road goes quickly down for some km, till crossing the river Orange. There are a good view first on the valley of Mokoklong, and then on the bed of the river Orange, rounded by willows, between two steep slopes. Then the road goes up, climbs a hill, goes down again till a river, and goes up again till the town of Mophanageg. We have headwind, so we have to push the bikes a lot. We cross some villages, and some pupils or shepherd, and always they go to us to beg money or saying I am hungry, boring. Mophanageg is a horrible town, a bus stop, some sad shops and crowdy. We find a nice place for lunch, the woman is good cook and gentle. We move quickly and start the climb till the high Lesotho. First it climbs slithly along a river, with a lot of villages and a lot of beggars. We finally stop at the last houses, where NGO yet didnt arrive, yet they dont have pit toilet or tap water, and ask to pitch the tent. The family is very gentle, takes a lot care that we feel welcome, cleans the grass where we choose to camp and keeps the children quite so they dont disturb us. None is begging. Once more we can see the bad effect of NGO who give wihout ask any give back, and dont ask to the local people to do by themselves.
After a humid night, with many showers and strong wind, I awake early, but Martine wants to stay in the tent till the end of the rain. So we start to move at 9 am. The head wind is very strong. Quickly we have to push the bikes. The children come with us for kms. After about 6 km we stop a while to rest and feed the bottles. And we continue to push. But we are at the foot of the steep climbing till the pass. The wind becomes stronger and stronger. My back is suffering, from the humid night. So after a short try, we decide the climb is impossible, and we would look for a lift. So we stop all the pick up. Quickly one has room and goes to Butha Bute, like us. Also they have seen us at the hotel in Mokoklong. We put the bike luggages and us in the back, and the car driver goes fast. In fact all the road is gravel, and with 4 very steep climbs, very too hard with bicycles. The countryside is high mountains with grass, an only village at the mine, with a large dam and the view of the mine. Then we pass the ski resort, and it becomes really awsome. We cross a last pass, and then the road goes down quickly, following a river. There are a few villages, fields, and groves of pine trees. In the end we enter in the large valley of Butha Buthe. there are a lot of fields with crops or cattle, villages every where, and a line of high peaks behind, in the distance. The driver lets us in the centre of Butha Buthe, and we pay 10$ for the lift. Then we go to the Crocodile hotel for the night.
Next day we cross the border and go to Clarens. We meet again the South African countryside, large farms, township, fields with cattle or crop. the road is with long hills, but we dont have to push. We pass some peaks or cliffs of sand stone. We arrive by the 4 pm at Clarens, which is just a very touristic village, with expensive lodges, galleries and souvenirs shops. The supermarket is poor. We go to camp in the incomfortable backpacker. Next day we are looking for a lift to Joburg. And luckily we see four cyclists. After a short chat they agree with hapiness to bring us to Joburg, where they are going back on Monday. And they let us in front the Melville backpacker.
Here we stay 3 days. We have to sort out our stuff, to choose what we would send home, and what we send in Tanzania. Also we have to buy some stuff for the bicycles, and for our stuff. We also have to rest a lot.

Afrique 14 – LESOTHO 1

 The Senqu river is the Orange River, but with Lesotho name.

We enter in Lesotho by Telle Bridge. It starts by a steep long hill by a gravel and stony and dusty road. After a while it flatters a bit and becomes tarred. After 10 km we arrive at the cross and we turn on right to Moyeni, or Quting. The countryside is very different, full of mountains around, fields with cows, sheeps and crops, and with a lot of villages, with little and simple houses. People too are very different. All they say us Hello how are you-good and you-fine. We need a third hand to say hello every minute. Animals are keeped by shepherds. A few men and women are working in fields, all by hands, no machines, or helped by oxes. Donkeys brings bags and goods. Time to time a man on a horse crosses the road. We feel like being before 1850. But too there is a light traffic of minibuses, the local comun transport, and some cars, mostly enterprises and officials. The road is hilly and steep. We enter in a small town by midday. There are a lot of artisan shops, people sitting in the street by groups. We find a kitchen, where we can eat the local meal, mutton, mais and pickles, 2.5$. We have a nice contact with locals here. Then we continues till Moyeni. We pass the turn on left to the dinosaures footprints, cross the bridge, and climb by the town for 2 km, by the main street. It is full of shops, supermarkets, people walking, and noise. We arrive at a lodge, where we stop for the night. That is the one the woman at the imigration service recommanded us. And too we met on the way the owner, who proposed us to bargain the price, so we do. Good room for 35$. It is a funny small building with a roof made of grass. It is 6 years old, and already the soil is 5 cm down by places, with all the problems coming with bad fundation.

Next day we go back to the bridge downhill, turn on right, pass the footprint museum, and follow by the steep climbs and up and down. We quickly connect with the Senqu River. All around are high mountains. The river bed is between two high slopes with a few trees around, willows acacias and eucalyptus mostly. Near the houses we see little trees bloming with pink flowers, peches. Grass is yellow and orange, ground red and yellowich, sky is blue. We have a light wind from West, like nearly always from Capetown. We pass Cutting Camp, which is just a few houses, and the slopes around are with a lot of christmas trees plantations. After a long while and hard work, we cross Sebapala River and village, which are small farms around. Yet there is no cantine for our lunch. After other steep up and down, with spectacular views on the river and the mountain, we arrive in Mount Morosi. It is a town, busy, noisy, with a lot of poor shops and supermarkets, and minibuses traffic. We find the cantine, in front the bus stop. We let the bicycles outside, and take the meal inside, taking care of the stuff by the window. Around are people drinking a lot of beers, or eating too. Neighbours are women drinking beers. After lunch I stay outside while Martine feed the bottles with water. I see the neighbour women I talk before going out the pub, with sexy and colorful dresses, and undulating the body. That is very different than other women, strictly dressed, with brown clothes, and blankets for the cold. At the end I feel insafe in that place. And a woman with a bible drawing on her shirt starts to talk to Martine, while a beggar tries to rob a plastic from a panier of the front wheel. And when Martine see him he stops and moves back, and by the same movement the woman says us goodbye, like if they were acting together. So I propose to move quickly away, following our way. At the real end of the town, we see the road camp, which is the yard and lodging for people repairing the road, and in front 2 policemen. We first talk with the policemen and ask there opinion about the possibility to camp in the road camp. When we obtain the agrement, we go to ask to the caretaker at the entrance. He phones to the boss, who agrees. And then he drives us till the end of the place, near the lodgings and the working building. Here we wait for the boss chatting with the 2 secretaries. Well I am tired so it is Martine who does all the chatting. At 4h30 the boss arrives and definitly agrees for our camping. The place is good, with trees, grass, water and toilet. It is not so cold anymore by night, about 5°, Spring is coming.
Next day we make quickly the steep downhill, 6 km, to join again the river bed. We cross the Quting river, and we start the very very steep uphill. We make 14 km in 6 hours, walking and pushing the bicycles. We climbs 1000 m, but of course with some parts downhill, which makes the uphill steeper and harder. The pass is at 2500 m high. At the top we have the view of all a large circle of peaks and mountains. We see a village and we ask at the first house to camp. The men agree. We start to pitch the tent in the courtyard, but a young woman who speaks english arrives. She recomands us to pitch the tent inside the ruins of a case, protected from the dogs by the walls. After a quick cleaning, we do. Then Martine goes with the woman visiting her house. When she comes back, we take some rest in the tent. By 5 pm we get out to cook the dinner. By 6 pm we are again in the tent, as it changes cold outside. During all the time we pitch the tent and rest and eat, 12 children, plus men and women, stay around to look at everything we do. But there are never boring, and always trying to make us comfortable.

Next day the very steep up and down contInue, and we have to burn the stops downhill, and push the bicycles walking in the climbs. We are now at the top of the mountain, and we dont see anymore the river. We continue to see a lot of villages, very small farms, crops and animals with shepherds, donkeys and cows and people working by hands or with oxes. Part of the houses are rectangular, other are cases, circular with a roof made of dry grass. Everywhere it feels very quiet and peaceful. We cross an other town, Mphaki. Well it is just a long street, with downhill the official buildings and enterprises, and after the top the bus stop and poor shops made with corrugated steel. Here we find a cantine for the usual meal. This town is small and feels safe. To feed our bottles of water, a young drives me to the comun tap, from where water falls drop by drop. So they put buckets under the tap, and come back later when they are full. Well a little further we stop along the road, where an other tap, always open, lets run a lot of water wasted. I remember that in South America, at such a tap all the taxis and minibuses would stop to feed tankers and bring them to the town, certainly to win some money. But here noone does. We continue up and down, steep and slowly, by the same beautiful countryside. After crossing a village, a group of pupils starts to speak with us and asks money, « swit ». Martine explains them that tourists dont like that, and that we travel by bicycle because we dont have a lot of money. She makes nearly a class, with all the children around her and listening. And suddenly all change and they propose to help us pushing the bicycles for the next steep climbing, very good and nice from them. Well there is a downhill then, and we overpass all the children. We cross a river and other village, and we push the bicycles a long while till the top of the hill. We cross a new pass at 2400 m high. At this top there is a small village, where we decide to stop for the night. We first ask at a woman at the first house, but men are not here so she cant say yes. We continue a bit, till the grocery shop. The woman says yes, and first tries to find a place on her yard. But we dont find any, and so suddenly she proposes we sleep in a empty room. Of course we agree, and the husband arrives by the way, and gives the permission. We dont have to pitch the tent. We make some shopping in the shop. The man makes us comfortable, putting a curtain to close the window, and finding the key for the door. Well all the family comes to visit us, for sure, and Martine does the chatting. Clearly she is better than me in relationship. When she tells she is an Architect, the owner asks her help for a pump trouble in his house. Well Martine cant do nothing, of course but she proposes to send them the local NGO contact.

Next day we have an early alarm clock. First at 5 am sing the roosters. Then the dogs bark. The sheeps and the donkeys join at the concert. And at 5h30 everyone starts to move outside and speaks. We awake like one hour later. we continue the steep up and downs till Patlong, crossing the same nice countryside and villages. Patlong is a very small town, a few caravans for shops, a big grocery, a village downhill, and schools. First we miss the cantine and arrive at the end of the town. So we go back, and after some asking, we find the cantine, where we get the usual plate. We continue, with a first up and down to join the river Orange again. Then we have 10 km of normal and comfortable and beautiful road along the river bed, at the foot of the canyon. Herds of animals with shepherds are in the bed itself. The road go smoothly up and down. At the village of White, it starts the very steep up and downs again, infortunately. The slopes are too steep along the river bed, so the road has to get off the canyon and overpass hills. Time to time we go go back near the river, to cross again a new hill. Suddenly we see a long climbing in the distance, and a village just before. We decide to camp in this village. We ask for the house of the chief, and children drive us till his house. The chief and his wife are very nice and after a short chatting, agree we camp near there case, in the courtyard. It is more quiet, only a few children look at us. We take a rest in the tent, and then we eat outside. The chief offers us 2 chairs. Then he comes to show us a foto of another cyclist he received before, Cristof and Steffen.

Next day we have the same alarm clock by all the animals. We awake at same time, and after the fotos, we move, slowly walking and pushing the bicycles up. We have a very long climb, 20 km, passing a lot of villages, to join the town. At the last village before the town, children join us and help us pushing the bicycles. We buy the traditional meal and we eat it a bit out of the town, seatted on rocks. In town a young cyclist with a real mountain bike sees us. He joins us again when we are eating, takes fotos of the bicyclces, and fotos of him and his friend on the bicycles. Then we pass the border, wich is at the top at the hill. After we have yet 33 km to do to join Matatielle, the first main town in South Africa. Infortunately the road is not tarred, but a very rought gravel with stones and lot of potholes. So we go very slow. For 12 km there is only grass and shrubs, till the first village. We ask here for lodging, but there is none. So we continue. We see a lot of houses in the distance, but in fact it is just the start of 20 km of suburbs before Matatielle. Eventually we join the tarred road, and with tail wind we arrive just before 5 pm at the supermarket, where we buy the dinner. The town is just 3 streets with a lot of shops and supermarkets, the big buses station, and a lot of poor people, blacks, in the streets. We go to Royal hotel, where we have a room with kitchen for 30$. We stay 2 days for rest and internet and manage our luggage. As Spring is coming, cold is away too, and we plan to cross an other part of Lesotho, from Sani pass till Butha Buthe. So we decide to send luggage to the next backpacker, in Clarens, Free State. We go to D and H courier, but they dont desserve Free State. Nicely they contact an other company, and manage for us and for free that that company pick up the luggage by the afternoon, and bring it till Clarens. We save 13 kg weight.
Tomorrow we continue the trip.