Afrique 22 – BLYDE CANYON entre Nelspruit et Zimbabwe

 We get in South Africa early, and we follow a narrow road with lot of traffic, a bit dangerous. The road is hilly, by farm land, mangos, sugar can, pineapple, papaye, and some groves of eucalyptus or cedars. Behind are mountains, on West side, the first line smooth, and then more abrupt with peaks, but they are in the fog. The rain saison is starting. We are approching Kruger game park, and the farm land is now remplaced by private game parks with lodges. It is natural forest, small bush with acacias and thorn trees behind high fences. We join the main highway Maputo Nelspruit, with very a lot of traffic and noise. We cross again sugar cane fields, and it is hilly. We stop at a gazoline station and ask to some van drivers if they go to Nelspruit, but none goes. So we continue on bicycle. When we arrive in Meleulane we go to a BB to sleep.

Next day it is sunny again. we continue cycling the highway, more hilly, along a canyon made by a river, , with bush, at the foot of escarped mountains. It is beautiful, but we cant apreciate it, because of the trafic. And it worsts, as there are road works. half day we turns on left to follow the old road, asfalted too, also with trafic, but with cars mostly, by farms and suburbs along the road. Before Nelspruit we turn on left way to the airport. We stop at a gazoline station for a while, and the owner phone to a friend for a place to camp. The guy should wait for us at a stand with fruits along the road, but we didnt meet him. So we continue a short while, and we ask to camp at a farmer. He drives us to his dam.
Today we continue by farm land, very hilly and steep, and very hot, till Riverwhite. This is a town, and we stop to lunch. Martine feels tired so we find a lodge and stay.
Today again is very hot. The road is very hilly, with long steep hills, along forest plantations, mostly eucalyptus, cedars and sometime pine trees. A plantation of alien trees is quickly sad and boring. It misses all the canopy, little trees, flowers, grass, plants and animals and birds. Local plants and animals dont adapt quickly enough to survive inside. Also the farmers harvest the wood each ten years, cutting all the trees, so all the canopy dies by the way. Well they dream to get a lot of money quickly, but I wonder if they realize what that means eucalyptus forests. They get big fires now. Well we continue slowly, hill after hill. The last one is the longer, about 8 km, under a terrible heat. I get slowly at the top. Near the end I have to walk, from a shadow to the next. It is too hot. At the top I stop and seat in the shadow, waiting for Martine. After a while, a van appears and stops at my level. Martine is in. A woman picks her up, she didnt want her to continue pushing the bicycle in that heat. So I put too my bicycle in the van and we fo downhill to Sabie. The woman invites us to stay in his home nearby. Here we meet a neighbour and friend of us. He propose us to bring us back to Nelspruit airport, where we could rent a car. As Martine would like to see animals, I agree too, as by that way we could visit Kruger park. It is too late to get a reservation for a car, so the lady agrees we stay at his home one day more. We just rest and goes shopping in Sabie, which is half a tourist city, half a village. Martine spend all afternoon using internet on her phone to prepar Kruger park visit, and I read about cycling the South Mozambique to choose the following of the travel.
On Sunday morning Roy brings us to the airport where we get a car. And we go to Kruger park where we will stay 2 days. We see a lot of animals, and it is a bit funny to look for them in the small forest. We see also hyenas, as we get to the campsite late. but as we awake late we dont see lions. But it is rather expensive. 250$ for 4 days renting a car with 970 km, 100$ petrol, 90$ fee to stay in the park 2 days, 18$ for camping one night, 40$ for restaurant by the evening and cantine at midday. Then we add 60$ for the transport to the airport, 16$ for the campsite out of Kruger, and 80$ for the room in Pieterburg where we let the car and take one day rest, as Martine drives all the 3 days.
After Kruger park, we get of by Arpen gate and all around are private game parks. We camp in a campsite.
We use the car too to visit Blyde river canyon. The entrance by Arpen side is wonderful, with high mountains in the distance, and then we approach the peaks and see the colourful rocky slopes. Infortunately we are in a car so we cant stop to admire the countryside or take photos. Well we continue, we cross the pass, and we arrive after a long climb on a flat land with fields and farms. The river is further. After a while we get a bit downhill and follow the canyon, but again we cannot stop, cars are stupid things. Then we make a detour and pay 1$ to go to a view point on the lake, beautiful colours and steep falaises. Next view point we have to pay 8$ but we are seek to pay so we dont go. Then we go to see 2 other view points, 1$ each, to see a waterfall and a view of the valley down covered with forest plantation. We walk too a few minutes in the last very small piece of mountain raining forest of South Africa. Well it would be nicer to pay once for all than each time. Then we go to Graspock, which is just a village for tourists, with lodges, restaurants and shops. We continue by a hilly and steep and winding and narrow road, way to Pilgrim Rest, by the forest. We cross the tunnel, and get off the hills. We enters in the platinium mine aera, with housing everywhere, rather flat land between two slopes in the distance, trafic and smoke, sad place. We cross the pass, which is not hard in the end, and the road continues slowly to climb till 1800 m high. We continue by flat farm land and we arrive late in Petierburg, where we go to a lodge. We take one day rest in Pieterburg, just a modern city. The centre is used by official buildings and poor black shoppings and stock halls, and the nice malls and parks are outside.
Next morning the plan is to get a lift by car till the border of Zimbabwe, 230 km away. We cycling till the gazoline station near the airport, and with the help of the employees we ask to van drivers. Quickly a teller finds us a lift till Prichard, 100 km away. We have an interessant chat with the 2 black guys in the car. For the second time we have the opinion of blacks about what is happening now in South Africa. The lift coasts us 10$ and they let ud to the gazoline station by midday. Then we try to get a lift to Messena, but all the van are just local trafic, noone seems to want to go to Zimbabwe. By 5 pm we ask to a farmer in a van, and he proposes us to bring us at the top of the hill, 6 km away, to a farm of his friend. We go there, and we are nicely lodged in a chalet along the dam For free.
The next day we go back to the main road and continue cycling to Zimbabwe. The countryside is totally different. We get off the small bush we had from Pieterburg, to enter since the start of the climb yesterday evening, in a plantation forest, eucalyptus and cedars, and fruit farms, a wet mountains zone. We go down quickly by a very long downhill along a river, which is deep in a narrow canyon, between two cliffs, with peaks here and there. Then we enter in a slighly hilly land with local bush, grey and without leaves as it is yet the dry season. All is highly fenced and used as private game reserves and expensive lodges. We understand it will be impossible to find a place to camp, so we stop 20 km before Messena, at a gazoline station. The lodging is expensive, but the owner proposes us to camp in a lodge she have 3 km before for cheap. So we go. The place seems good, very quiet, in the bush, and used mostly by groups, as there is a big comun hall with bar. In fact by 7 pm it turns in a night club with very loud music and drunks, till 4 am, and we have a very bad sleep.
Next day we move a bit late, tired, and I am in bad mood. But the hilly and easy road cleans the anger, and we arrive in Messena, which is a noisy town crossed by the main highway, with shops and supermarkets along. We stop at the end in the mall to make some shopping and continue way to the border. We stop at the gazoline station just before the border, and we ask the permission to put the bikes in the very large and empty hall of the take away time we eat. But they refuse, so I decide we move away. They dont want the bikes so I dont want the food. We go to the border. On the South African side things goes quickly and easy. It would be harder on the Zimbabwe side.

Afrique 21-KRUGER PARK 2

 only fotos

Afrique 20-KRUGER PARK 1

 Well we continue slowly, hill after hill. The last one is the longer, about 8 km, under a terrible heat. I get slowly at the top. Near the end I have to walk, from a shadow to the next. It is too hot. At the top I stop and seat in the shadow, waiting for Martine. After a while, a van appears and stops at my level. Martine is in. A woman picks her up, she didnt her to continue pushing the bicycle in that heat. So I put too my bicycle in the van and we fo downhill to Sabie. The woman invites us to stay in his home nearby. Here we meet a neighbour and friend of us. He propose us to bring us back to Nelspruit airport, where we could rent a car. As Martine would like to see animals, I agree too, as by that way we could visit Kruger park. It is too late to get a reservation for a car, so the lady agrees we stay at his home one day more. We just rest and goes shopping in Sabie, which is half a tourist city, half a village. Martine spend all afternoon using internet on her phone to prepar Kruger park visit, and I read aebout cycling the South Mozambique to choose the following of the travel.

On Sunday morning Roy brings us to the airport where we get a car. And we go to Kruger park where we will stay 2 days. We see a lot of animals, and it is a bit funny to look for them in the small forest. We see also hyenas, as we get to the campsite late. but as we awake late we dont see lions. But it is rather expensive. 250$ for 4 days renting a car with 970 km, 100$ petrol, 90$ fee to stay in the park 2 days, 18$ for camping one night, 40$ for restaurant by the evening and cantine at midday. Then we add 60$ for the transport to the airport, 16$ for the campsite out of Kruger, and 80$ for the room in Pieterburg where we let the car and take one day rest, as Martine drives all the 3 days.
After Kruger park, we get of by Arpen gate and all around are private game parks. We camp in a campsite.

Afrique 19 – SWAZILAND second part

 Later we enter in the Hlane national park, but as there is a lot of traffic we don’t see any animal. We decide to camp in the national park. In front the restaurant there is a dam with a few rinoceros and antilops, and 2 islands in the middle, which are the back of hippos. Then we see a group of tourists going walking in the park with a guide. They look coming out from a fashion adventure magazine, with the brown or military clothes, well paint and with hair dressed, and some with very big camera and walking sticks. That is funny and rather ridiculous. We get dinner in the restaurant, very good food. Before we had a look to the dam, to see in the dusk the rino move away and the hippos going out of the water. Well Martine enjoys it, me I don’t really care.

Next morning we look a while first a herd of antilops walking quietly to the dam and drink. Then rinos come walking very slowly till the dam, drink, and go to sleep in the mud close the dam. They are 11 at the end. At 10 am we move away. We get off the national park, and make some shopping in Symunie. Symunie is a new village, which looks like a garden with nice houses, all the shops, and a country lodge and sport ground. Then we continue way to Mhlume, on the road M5, by large fields with cane sugar plantation everywhere. We see other garden villages like Simunye for the workers of the sugar cane. The farms are governement farms, and the governement takes well care of his employees. We stop in the police station to camp in Tshaneni, but the boss refuses and send us in a hotel in the village, where Martine get the room at 25$.
Next day we follow the road M5 till Sihhoye. Then we continue, yet by cane sugar fields, or by bush forest or abandonned fields with bush growing. We continue and by 10 am we stop at a village with a cross, on left to Manzini, on right to the border. We lunch, and we spend all our local money in the supermarket, as we believe, from the map, we are 15 km from the border. Then we take the road and after a few km we get at a cross, on left way to piggs peaks, and in front way to the border, but the sign indicate 47 km, not 10! We get lost, and after a while we understand the last village wasn’t Hereford, but other one south near Bhalekane. Well at least the road to the border is all asfalted. Later I remember I had seen a map in Hlane park, with the main road making a big detour south. So I understand they change the main road, certainly as a bridge broke on the straight road. At the border we have a look on the map in the magazine “What new In Swaziland”, which confirms that suposition. To take the straight road we should have to turn way to Sihhoye village on the M5A, but further the road is stopped by a river. May be there is a pass, may be not. Well we follow by a barely populated and barely used land, with native bush and open forest, with scattered acacias and shrubs. The road is all with long and steep up and down, and it is hot, 35. There are a few little villages with huts or basic houses, schools, and some fields and vegetables gardens, but no more tropical fruits. We finally ask to camp in a farm at the entrance of the village. The owner accepts, but he needs the agrement of the leader of the village. So we seat and speak with the women, Martine mostly talks, I feel tired. At 4 pm I decide we have to push the decision, and so I decide we will prepare our supper on the stove and eat. I was remembering a recomandation some traveler told me. At a border if the customs makes someone waiting, it is because the police hopes some money to help moving quicker. The best way to resolve it is to cook, to show them we have time and we won’t move. Well the women look at us a bit surprised and curious. But suddenly one says there is no need to wait anymore for the leader, we would sleep in a hut neighbour his home, not let us camp outside. So we did, putting the mattress on the concrete, under the observation of the women. Well it rains all night, so it is good to have a roof.
Next day we move early and follow to the border, 20 km away. The road is still steep up and down, by a poor countryside, bush and small villages. Suddenly in the middle of nowhere, at the top of a hill, there is a mall, with all shops, supermarkets, nursery and hospital. Then the bush comes back till the border, where there are a few shops. Before, from a hill we see a long lake, and a valley with cane sugar fields, that is already South Africa. We cross the border without difficulties, and we get 90 days visa more for South Africa.

Afrique 18 – SWAZILAND first part

 Swaziland

We enter by Amsterdam border. The countryside continues to be forest plantations, mostly eucalyptus and acacias robusta, but some pine trees also. The road is always with long and steep up and down. There are a few villages or little farms, small houses and huts. We arrive in Bunya, which is a big paper pulp fabric for paper making, a saw-mill, and a private village for the workers of the fabrics and the forest. Along the way, after the fabrics, are a few houses too.
Here we have to decide or we go by the hills to Mbabane, the capital, or we follow along the river to Manzini. We let the capital and follow the river, easier, and also because the back-road from the capital to Manzini looks like a tourist trap. The road follows by up and down, but less steep. Around is farmland, with a lot of little farms, little fields and little vegetables and fruits gardens. The climate is hotter, we are downhill now, 300 m high about. We see mangoes and papaya, and a lot of small acacias. We look for a farm to camp but the terrain is hilly, nowhere flat more than for the house, and no big farm. We aren’t acostumed for that new country. In the end we turn to Malkerns, as someone indicate us a lodge not far. At a cross we ask again the way, and suddenly I see the van of the backpacker. I ask to the driver, and the backpacker is just 15 mn away, by the gravel road. So here we go to sleep.
Next day we are in a national park where we can cycle to see antilops, buffalos and zebras. So we stay. We make a 20 km tour and see some herds. But each time when we approch us they run away, no way to be near. We find the dam after a long search, as the map is very incomplete, but we don’t see hippopotams. For the dinner we take the braai prepared by the hotel, saussage on fire and pap and rice and vegetable, a big plate.
Then we follow for a while the back road from Malkerns, till the main road 3. We arrive in the suburb of Manzini, where we have to take the highway till Manzini. Then we lunch in the supermarket, I put a piece of gum from a truck tyre founded along the road, between the fork of my bicycle and the paniers, to avoid they touch and lime the fork, while Martine has a long talk with a local. After we have a very long and steep climb, about 7 km. The first part is in town, in the traffic, and then by a narrow road with a lot of trucks. At the top of the hill we stop in a hotel, as Martine is a bit seek.
Next day we continue by the hilly road 3. The country side is or little farms, or native forest, a bush of little trees, and shrubs, and high grass, with a lot of thorns. It is a bit boring. Just one tree has red flowers, and also jacaranda blooming all in purple.

Afrique 17 – JOHANNESBURG TILL SWAZILAND

 Joburg to Swaziland

We manage wrongly to get off Joburg. First we think to take a bus till Ermelo, but we just check Intercape lines, which doesnt accept bicycles. Then we choose to go till Spring, the end of the suburb, by train, and then hiche hycke. But we understand lately that the suburb train is a good place for roberies. On the last morning we phone to Greyhound buses, yes they accept the bicycles, but the bus is already on the road, too late. So we take a taxi to Spring, where we arrive for 1 pm. We start to hitche hike, but after one hour, we understand noone would take us, we have too much stuff. So we decide to ride. We have a strong tail wind, and the road is barely undulating by fields, crops and cattle, with a farm time to time. We take the backroad, till Devon. Just after the town we stop at a farm to camp. The couple quickly offers us a room and dinner. We have a nice chatting about South Africa. They have too 9 little dogs. After a good rest we got breackast too, and say goodbye.
By the evening the farmer recommanded us to go to the main road N17 by the shortcut neighbourg to his land. We quickly see a car overtaking at the top of the hill, and then a truck overtaking us passing very near the bikes. So we follow the advice and take the shortcut to the N17. This road have a good shoulder and less trafic, so that is perfect. The country side is the same than yesterday, and the same back wind. We stop at a big gazoline station, and a couple of blacks comes to chat with us, and then a local cyclist. The big chimneys in the distance are from a fabric which makes petrol from coal. Then we continue and just after Bethal we stop at a farm to camp. They are very nice with us and have too 9 little dogs. I have headhache so I go to sleep when the tent is pitched. So they may had invited us, but they didnt want to disturb us.
We move early this morning, but we have strong head wind. The countryside is the same. Cycling is a fighting, and I stay in front to help Martine. We make a short stop in Davel. It is a township, and the blacks look at us with surprise. But they are nice, indicating the way, and joking. The fast food is closed, but we buy some bananas in the shop. Then we go back to the fighting. Near Ermelo start climbings. We finally enter in Ermelo, and we go to the supermarket. It starts to rain lighly. It is very cold, 9 about. We go to find a lodge, but all are very expensive, 50$. We ask to a couple of blacks the direction for an hotel, and they recommand us to turn on right. Then the man runs after us to indicate the right way. By that moment a car stops and the driver asks us what we are looking for. We answer a cheap lodge, and he offers his home. So we go back to his home, which is very near, we talk a little while they offer coffe, and then they go to visit friends. We are tired so we go to bed early, refusing the supper they propose. During the evening and a part of the night there is a big storm with heavy rainfall and wind. We have a long chatting in the morning , and then we move.
But after 50 m Martine stops to change the battery of her counter. And at the first cross I stop to repair my first puncture. The wind is yet in front, but less strong than yesterday. The countryside is the same, but becomes hilly. We are tired by the effort of yesterday. So after a short day, we stop at a farm. They have again plenty of funny dogs, and the owners are nice, but very busy. We pitch the tent and take a rest and take supper. The owner opens for us a very clean toilet and shower. The sun is coming back.

The countryside changes a little, it is coming groves of eucalyptus here and there. It is hilly. The wind is very quiet, and it is sunny. We have a stop for breackfast, in front a large lake, and we see some antilops. We have a second stop in a group of houses for blacks, to ask water. Immediately children come to us. A part stays with me and the bikes, an other part drives Martine till the tap. None is begging, all are very gentle.

Around there are more and more groves of acacia and eucalyptus, and sometimes pine trees. We cross Amsterdam, which is a little black town, a main street with poor supermarkets, shops in bungalows, and sellers on the floor. After a short stop for lunch, we take the climb by the forest for 9 km. There is no farm, only a jail and villages for blacks. We finally stop 4 km before the border, to camp in the forest. We find a nice place by an unuse track. We see a chacal in the track, just before pitching the tent. We have a good night in the eucalyptus forest.

Afrique 13 – ALIWAL NORTH TILL LESOTHO

 We follow the road 58 to Lady Grey. It is with 2 long hills, and mostly climbing, and we have side wind. the countryside follows yellow fields, farms time to time, and a few shrubs, with slopes in the distance. In the distance we can see a long and high line of mountain, brown and orange, the limit wih Lesotho. Just before Lady Grey we turn on left on R392. We stop a km after to ask for camping at the first farm. But the owner is away, so the caretaker has to refuse. She try to call to the owner, but doesnt get any connection. At least we get water. We go to the farm in front, but the farm is not accessible from that road. Fortunately there is a abandonned building, a school, opened, which is used for stock for animals, and a few chickens are in the courtyard. We decide to sleep inside the building, and we start to unpack. Quickly a car arrives, with 3 men. One is the boss, and he gives us permission to stay. The two others are workers, who care for the animals, and will sleep in the building too, in other room.

Next day we continue and the road is very hilly, short up and down. There are a lot of villages or new township along the road. But we dont see anymore farms or industries, just small bush and grass and gravels. Around it starts to become montaneous, and we follow a parallel with the high mountain, whih is the border to Lesotho. We arrive in Sterspruit, which is a small town. It is very busy, with blacks everywhere in the main street, and a lot of supermarkets, and noise and loud music everywhere. That is a big change. After a short wandering we find the fish and chips, which is in the gasoline station, used too as minibus station. But it has a long queue. Luckily just neighbour, there is a little cantine, where we eat the local meal, mais, mutton and pickles, 2.5$ each. Then we continue by a long hill covered by suburbs for 10 km at least. We cross steep hills, and in the end we join Saint Michael Mission. We see the church, so we go in the courtyard. All the lodging buildings are closed, but there is an abandoned house opened. So we decide to camp inside, and we pitch the tent in, as there are no doors or windows anymore. In the morning a guy comes and tells us we should have ask permission. When we answer that is the mission here, and we move in a few moments, he moves away.
Next day we follow way to Lesotho. We discover that the real entrance for the mission is just 200 m further, downhill. Well we had a good and quiet sleep, so it doesnt mind. The road continues steep hilly and with a lot of villages, going inside the mountain, and it is all tarred. About at 11 a.m. we cross the border at Telle Bridge.

Afrique 12 – MIDDLEBURG TILL ALIWAL NORTH

 From Middleburg we follow East on a back road to Steinbruck. The road is nearly flat undulating by large fields of yellow grass, shrubs, and farms time to time. It is monotonous. We stop in Chombee, and ask to a farmer to camp in the yard. The night is cold, -5 in the tent. Next day brings same countryside and flat till Steinbruck. It is a small town with a big township at the entrance. We go shopping and then we go to the caravan park.

Next day we turn on left by the same countryside and flat road till Venderstadt. It is a small town with mostly blacks in the streets, listening loud music from a bar, it is Saturday afternoon. We go to the Wild hotel and take a room. The room is decorated like in a love hotel with purple, an enormous bed, and stores everywhere. Curiously other rooms look normal. The owners look strange also. The man is an old rocker and the woman a Christian hippie. They use a part of the hotel for Christian meeting like Christmas.
We continue to Bethulie by the same countryside. But we are near the big dam on Orange River now. The road is hillier. And we see some herds of antelopes, small and big, and zebras too. In Bethulie we first go to the police to know if it is possible to take a gravel road and cross a game reserve. Fortunately the boss arrives and tells us that the gate out is closed so we would have to go back. He suggests another gravel road which follows the fence of the reserve and then goes to Aliwal north. Then we go shopping and while I do it Martine has a long chat with a black who works in the prison neighbour. Then we go to the Bike inn. We are the only customers so we have the entire house for us two. We chat with the owner who looks like an old hippie. By the evening I read the lonely planet about Lesotho and choose the trip there. We would follow the Orange River canyon, then go to Sani pass by South Africa, and then go back in Lesotho till Buthabuthe. So we continue going way to Aliwal north, not to Maseru.
We follow the road to Springfield with strong side wind, by the same countryside, large fields with yellow grass, shrubs and a few farms, with hills, and old peaks in the distance. After 30 km we go straight, on the gravel road, and the main tarred road turns on left. The gravel road goes downhill, and we have backwind, but it is very corrugated and with a slippery layer of gravel, so we go slowly, carefully. We pass the entrance of the reserve, closed. We stop at the first farm to ask water, and ask if there is other farm later, before the prison. No that the last one and no problem we can pitch the tent in the yard. So we do, and when we have just finish the owner comes and proposes us to sleep in the guest room. We unpitch the tent and move, and then we cook. While we try to eat very spicy pastas, the owner apologizes and proposes to share the dinner. So we throw away the pasta. The wife and the elder son arrive by the time, from Aliwal, where the son was playing tennis with youngs from Bethulie. And we join in the large saloon. We chat eating biltong, which are dried meet. Suddenly the wife gets a phone call, the minibus which brings back the youngs to Bethulie broke on the gravel road. So the father and the elder son take a van to get there and bring to the farm, where another minibus coming from Bethulie will bring them home. We have dinner, the youngest son plays 2 songs with the guitar, and I go to bed, while Martine continues to chat.
In the morning the family gives us breakfast and a pack of biltong.
We follow on the gravel road for yet 15 km, but it is very better now and we have back wind, so it is easy. We then have tarred road till aliwal north, but very hilly. The wind helps us a lot, fortunately. We see a long herd of cattle going to fields. Aliwal north is a big town crossed by the main road n6 and with the classical shops. We go to the caravan park to rent a chalet, 40$, and rest. Next day Martine spends all day on the internet for his volunteering, and me a few hours for the blog.
We stay 2 days more in Aliwal North, as I am a bit sick.

Afrique 11 – GRAAF REINET TILL MIDDLEBURG

 To join the road N9 we take an other road, all gravel. After a first steep climbing, it climbs slowly for 18 km till the pass, 1600 m. Fortunately we have back wind. At the top there is a large view of all the plain, between mountains in the distance. We can see the pass to Cradock in front, and the pass to Middelburg on left. Then there a quick downhill till the ralway station, which presently is used as a little farm. We ask water there, and chat with the woman. Here they live without elctricity, it is too expensive to do the connection. Then we have strong side wind, so we go slowly, fighting. We are in the middle of the plain, with only large fields with yellow grass around. Martine is tired, but as there is no place to hide and camp, and strong wind, we continue, again slightly climbing. The weather is changing too, becoming all cloudy and black. So I do want to cross the pass, which is near now. We have a last flat with back wind, we arrive at the foot of the steep part. With the strong wind, the only pssibility is to push the bicycles for 4 km. Fortunately it is not so steep in the end. There are some very impressive look out on the plain, in his long side this time. And we rise the top, 1780 m high, 500 m climbing. Then comes a quick downhill for a few km. We stop at the first farm we see, and luckily we meet the owners just at the gate, when they were coming outside. They agree we camp in the farm, and they propose a hall for storing wool, presently empty. So we are protected from wind and cold. We dont meet the owners again.

Then we have 50 km mostly downhill till Middelburg, by and other plain, with crops now. It last by a slow crossing of a long new township, with strong head wind. We go to the centre, 2 streets with the classical shops, blacks laying and beging, and we find the supermarket to buy the usual chicken chips. then we wander a bit looking for the internet cafe, asking at the lodges. We find it, and by chance Martine asks if they can indicate a cheap lodging. The owner has a lodge too, first he proposes the double room for 40$, and nearly after 18$! So we take it. We spend most of the afternoon on the computers, Martine writing a report of his voluntaring, and me saving and reducing the fotos.

Afrique 10 – THE OULU HOUSE

 First we go to New Betesdha.

We decide to follow by the rasonable way, the main tared road N9. It looks easier than the gravel road proposed by the cyclist we met in Graaf Reinet. The road mosly climbs, slowly, by the land with small shrubs and grass, between 2 smooth slopes. After 30 km we turn on left on the backroad to New Betesdha. It continues climbing, the last 4 km very steep, we have to push the bicyles walking, till the pass, 1600 m, 750 m climbing. Then comes a quick downhill till the river, with a spectacular view of the serpentine river in a field, between peaks. Then we have some km of gravel roads, to join the village, at 1250 m high.
Well it is very quiet, with a district with good houses for whites, an other district with basic houses for blacks, and the school and sport ground between. As we are nearly the only tourists in winter, we have all a lodfe for us two, luxury. On the next morning we visit the Owl House. It is a house where the owner, a woman, wirh the help of a black employee, covered all the walls and ceilings with crushed glass from bottles. They made decorations playing with the diferent colours of glasses, in each room. The floor of the terrace is also paved with pieces of bottles. The windows are painted in colours. And in the garden, there are a lot of cement statuees, as big as human beings, mimiking the birth of Christ and the mages on camels, and also paons and owls. Part of the statues are decorated with glass too. Then we go shopping in the township, and spend the afternoon resting.

Afrique 9 – GRAAF REINET

 Surprisingly, Graaf Reinet is a very touristic town. Last weekend, which was a 3 days weekend, all was full, and it happens a lot of events. Well presently the campsite is empty, and we rent a little hut for 20$. The town has some nice old buildings, and the church is big and high, very impressive just in the perspective of the main street, closing it. Around are a national park, a spectacular view on the plain from the top of a cliff, and mountains to climb or trek, and wild animals farms. We take one day rest, and tomorrow we will turn around a bit. Then we go to Middleburg and way to Lesotho.

Afrique 8 – OUTSHOORN TILL GRAAF REINET PART 2

 Next day we cross the little hill which hide the dam. And we have a very large view of the Great Karoo, a very flat land with grass and shrubs, till the end of the world. Well not so far, as we can see the range of mountains which are 200 km away. The dam is absolutely dry, and a small river comes in, snaking. The weather is harsh, very windy, on left side, and very cloudy. We are just before the rain, so we just receive drops. The mountains behind desapears in clouds, and certainly there it is snowing. And slowly the clouds covered all the sky and cover also the mountains in front. The road is barely undulating, and we can see herds of sheaps, for mohair whool. By 3 o clock we start to look for a place to camp. We check 2 water tanks, but we cant hide us enough behind the first one, and for the second the gate of the field is closed. We finally see 2 farms. The first one is far from the road, and we see a little further a building, at the foot of the hill. We decide to go and see. It is a house for hunters. Outside, at the oposite of the wind, so protected, there is a large gallery with tables and a chimney, and good room to pitch the tent on the concret under the roof. We arrive just on time to avoid the big showers. There are toilet and tap water too. We have a very good night listening the crazy wind and the rain on the roof.

In the next morning the sky is blue, and the wind still as strong. And luckily it turns a bit, so we have it perfectly on the back. So we become the flying tortoises, running at 25 km. The road continues the same undulating in flat land, with fields of shrubs, and in reality climbing a bit. We will crosss a pass at 1000 m and descend till 750 m. We quickly arrive in Aberden, which is a nice village without township. It has a garden in the central place, and a few old buildings around in good state. No blacks are laying. A woman welcomes us and indicates us all the shops. We make a quick shopping, and we have an early fish and chips in a take away. The waiters are very nice. Then we go back to the main road, and I take a very good real coffe in the yellow road shop at the cross. The wind is so pushing us we decide to continue till Graaf Reinet. The road continues undulating by the shrubs land. We fly, sometime 40 km. We see some ostriches, herds of monkeys capucin, and one eagle. By 3 pm the wind is less stronger, and we come ack to anormal speed, but we are only 15 km to the end. We climb easily the last hill, and we see on right a large flat plain, and on left protected from the wind by the hill, the city of Graaf Reinet.

Afrique 7 – OUTSHOORN TO GRAAF REINET FIRST PART

 Outshoorn-Graaf Reinet

We take the road to De Rust. It starts by 2 climbs along town ships, better say slums in concrete. Well just to say Hello to the inhabitants, and they are so surprised and enjoyed, that the danger falls down. Then the road goes flat in farm land, a bit boring, with in the distance the usual hills covered with small shrubs. Far away we see the Swartberg mountains, all white by the snow, but also partially hidden by clouds. We have a last big hill, and we arrive in De Rust, which is a village with a township at the entrance. We find a take away restaurant at the end of the main street, the bakery with the elephant, and we eat just in front, in the garden behind the tourist office. We notice that it is in fact a caravan park, so we ask to the woman who cleans the toilet who is the owner. And we camp in the courtyard of the owner lodge, for 12$.
Next day we follow by the R341, a backroad nearly without traffic. We have head wind, and it is hilly, always up and down, so we go slowly. Mostly we pass by shrubs land, with time to time a farm with fields. We can see better the white mountains behind, as it is sunny. After a long strech straight, we make the tour around a big hill, very slowly, with strong head wind and climbing. Then we continue by the hills, slowly taking altitude in fact. We cross 2 little villages, a few farms in fact, and in the second we see a primary school, but it is closed. Fortunately, just belong there is a farm, and Gaspard, the owner, lets us camp in his courtyard. By the end of the day, he invites us in his home, to chat and offers a shower. He lives here alone with his mother, in a 200m2 house, with garden and dam around, behind the hill which protect him from the wind. He grows onions seeds for Monteso. What he says about black people could be said by any Sarkosy fan, very right side way of thinking. Well the black families who work for him lives on the other side of the road, in the wind, in small simple houses, without trees for the shadow. That is the typical farm in South Africa yet, the white in a palace, and the blacks in the misery.
Next day we continue by the same road and the same countryside, shrubs land. We cross 2 more very little villages, just a few farms. We stop to ask water at a farm. First we ask at the blacks at the small house, but they dont have tap water, the man drives me a hundred meters away, at a tap near the hedge of the big house of the farmer. Then we take te road N9, which have a few traffic too. We stop just before the first pass, Ghwarriepoort, and we ask to a farm to camp. They refuse as they just have a lot of invities, but they phone to the neighbour farms to find room for us. They send us to a farm 7 away. So we cross the pass, which is in reality an other defile made by a river, like before Montagu. Well it is not so beautiful, but it is easy, nerly flat, along the river. In fact the farm is a lodge, and we pay 20$ to camp. Fortunately later the owner comes and tells us to sleep in one apartment, as all is empty, and because she doesnt want we suffer the cold and the strong wind outside. The young woman who receives us was very nice with us too, but she cant do nothing for us, as she is just an employed. So we have hot showers, comfort, and coffe in the morning.
Next day we continue by the N9. The second pass is easy too, a short climb, 1000 m high, and we arrive at 11 h in Willowmore. It is an other sad dark town. The main street have no animation, a few shops for tourists, 2 very dark supermarkets, and the usual small groups of blacks wandering or laying on the stairs at the entrance of the shops. Most of the buildings are in bad condition. And at the get out we can see a large township. Such a place gives me quickly the blues, and I follow for a while with bad mood. We take 2 plates in the take away, as we are very hungry. We didnt managed well the shopping for the food when we moved from Oushoorn, and we were short. The take away have a little terrace closed by walls, which i live like a refuge. Then we continue by a long climbing in the mountain, with a lot of small trees in open forest, that means that the trees are espaced each other of a few meters, because they miss water, so they keep space around by poisonning the soil, to have a sort of plate of rain for each. There are also views on rocky and colourfull slopes, where we can read the geologic lanes. We finally cross the pass, and enter in a flatter part. We cross a first big farm, and the second is far from the road. We see further a house near the road. But it the house of the caretaker of the dam, and the entrance is forbidden. Fortunately 200 m later we see a sport ground and the gate is open. We decide to camp here. We let the bicycles in and we go for water. We walk first till the small houses for workers, but all is abandonned. So we continue till the big house, which is empty, but we find rain tankers behind. We feed the bottles and return to the sport ground where we pitch the tent. By the evening we ear noise near the big house. The caretaker comes back home with his family. They walk till the dam and then they make a barbecue on the terrace. But they let us quiet, may they saw us, maybe not, anyway they dont care about.

Afrique 6 – OUTSHOORN

 On the next morning we go by minibus to visit Kango cave. It is a very big cave with 2 large and high halls, and a 2.5 km walk. There are a lot of big stalagtics and stalagmits. We have to go crawling through 3 very narrow corridors, and climb by a chimney. In the afternoon it rains again and we just relax and visit the town, which has just 2 streets with the classical useful or touristic stuff shops.

Because of the rain, it is snowing in the mountains, and the peaks are white. We were wondering to climb the scenic Swaberg pass and make the Russ detour, but it i closed by the snow. So we forget it and would follow way to Ado park and Graf reinet.

Outside of Outshoorn are a lot of ostruch farms, and also wild animals farms.

Well as all the wild animals were over hunted in Africa, by game, and also because they destroyed the farms, and also because as the white had robbed all the farms and lands of the native people,  these have to over hunt to survive, as they dont have anymore enought land to cultivate and have cows. So the wild animals nearly desapear. And they survive because a few people understood the business a country could do with Reserves and National or Private parks. So they start to find wild animals in very remote places, in the jungle, bring them in parks, and farm them. Noone would anymore see wild animals in Africa, apart in the very dense jungle, or a few ostruch and gazelles.

And in the Parks they bring food and water, it isent real nature.

Afrique 5 – ROBERSTON TO OUTSHOORN

 From Robertson till Ashton, the road is flat and goes by farm land, uninteresting. Then it climbs a bit to join Montagu. And it passes through a defile, made by a river. Well when the mountain growed the river was already there. And it digged the growing mountain to maintain here, and by the way it made the defile. We take a lot of stops to look at the yellow and orange cliffs, at the river bed and at the small bush on the slopes. Then we take the usual lunch in Montagu, chicken chips, and continue way to Barrydale. The road follows between two ranges of mountains, in a large valley, farm land, wineries apples and peers. On right during ten km the cliffs are straight, hight, and colourful. Red, orange, yellow, green, purple. Then it becomes more comun, with slope covered with small shrubs, till Barydale. We camp behind a school, empty as it is saturday.

Between Montagu and Barrydale, the climb is 500 m, but all by steep hills, which makes it very more difficult. Then till Ladismith there are 4 long climbs, in a desolate countryside, a large valley between two slopes in the distance, all that covered by the small shrubs and gravel. Only one plant is beautiful, a smal trunk and at the top a big red flower with large petals, growing by groups. We camp in a farm, 200 cows for milk. Ladismith is a small town, and i see only old people or idiots and blacks laying on the steps of the supermarket. Certainly it i a dead town, without any job, and all the valids moved away.

The shrubs land continue 10 km after Ladismith, and then comes back the farm land, more fields than wineries. We pass two long climbs. We stop first in Zoar, a local village with the meeting shop. Then we continue a few km till the mission. When we see office building, we ask to camp. Well in fact it is not any more the mission. In 1986 the mission sold half to the governemnt, and that half is now a gvnt farm, with 400 cows for milk, and 25 workers. In front the office a restaurant opened 3 months ago, and we camp on the yard. We have a good talk with the owners. And also we eat for supper a big and very good pizza each, and an english breackfast, all cheap.
Then we have two big climbs more, 500 m high climbing. We continue till Calizdorp by the same countryside, farm land with fields and fruit trees, in a large valley between two slopes with shrubs. Everywhere before the irrigation it was only the shrubs. After Calizdorp we have an other long climb till 500 m. Then it turns smoothy hills. The country side becomes again only shrubs between two slopes in the distance. I regret a bit that we didnt choose to go by the gravel road, which goes along the south slope, with farms and wineries. We can see it in the distance. Well some spin shrubs are blooming with yellow small flowers. We stop in the only building we see, apart 2 expensive farm lodges, a primary school. We enter, feed the bottles with water, and go behind, in the field which is used by part as football play field. We go 100 m inside by the bush of grass, and we pitch the tent. The ground is very sandy. During the night it starts to rain, sometime heavily. And it continues to rain all night and all morning.
So we move in the morning, in the cold wind and heavy rain, till Outshoorn, by the same boring countryside. Now i am very happy we didnt take the gravel road, which would be very muddy and wet, hard to cycle. On the asfalt we go fast by the smoothy hills. We arrive all wet in the hostel, where we had booked a comfortable room for 2 nights. It continues to rain all afternoon and all night.

Afrique 4 – CAP TOWN TO ROBERSTON

 On saturday we choose to take one day rest more in Cape town. Martine nEeds to rest, And it is raining heavily all day and all night. We just visit the 2 main touristic streets and pAck the luggages .

On Sunday we awake a bit late, and we go till the railway station. We take the train till Belleville, 30km away, to get off the suburbs. We have to cross 4 railways and to ask to 2 agents to find the gate out the station, and then we ask to the police the way to go ahead. It is easy and quick. We follow on a nearly flat road, with back wind, and cloudy, for 35 km. The country side is mostly farmlands, fields and crops, so it is not very interessant. We arrive in Stellenboch, where we go to the backpackers.
Stellenbosh is one of the oldest town of South Africa. Well it starts like all the towns of South Africa I suppose, slums and districts of township, which means little and basic houses with a small garden, inhabited by blacks only, then other districts with better houses, for Asians and metis, and in the end downtown, with technologic buildings, cottages, and old houses, and with all the official buildings, for the whites. Well they are a few old houses, churches and buildings, nothing fabulous in fact. It is Sunday so every shop are closed, and it is very quiet. It is very touristic because that is the start of the wine region, and it is rounded by mountains with high cliffs.
On monday we start by being in Australia land. The road is rounded by eucalyptus, acacias, brush trees, and pine trees, and I can make a lesson about eucalyptus to Martine. We enter in the mountains and cross the first pass, Hells hootge, 300m climbing, yet by the forest, with also fields and some wineries. Then we go back to France, with a lot of wineries, and the estate have funny names, languedoc, provence, huguenots, clairvaux, la rochelle, etc… We pass Franschhoek at midday. Then we climb slowly the pass, 600m, 7%, by the mountain. the slope is covered with shrubs and bruyeres, and higher are the cliffs. back we have the view of all the large valley, between 2 hedges of mountains. At the top it is already 4 o clock, and as there is a little trail going inside the mountain, we decide to follow a while to find a place to camp. The trail drives to the gate of la Rochelle reserve and peak, and fortunately we easily find a place to pitch the tent, hidden from the road. The view is awsome. On each side down we see 2 large valleys rounded by mountains and cliffs, and on the 2 other sides we are at the foot of big peaks, totally wild. After a cold night, we awake and the sky is perfectly blue, and the view very clear.
On Tuesday we start by the very easy and quick 14 km down, between 2 hedges of cliffs, till joining the dam. Then it is flat and the water is really blue, with trees reflecting. At midday we lunch in Villiersdorp, with the already usual chicken chips bought in the supermarket. By the way we buy all in supermarkets, we dont see small shops and no sellers along the roads. After, we enter in a valley, with big hills, and head wind, winneries and fruits trees, apples and peers. We cross the biggest hill, 300 m, and then the wind stops. On each side in the distance, we see mountains, rather dry, with small shrubs. After a few more hills, it is already 4 pm, so we turn in the first trail, and we camp. The temperature is cool by the evening, and becomes very cold, nearly 0° by the dawn.
On Wenesday we continue by the main road 10 km, and we turn on right in a backroad, which becomes gravel, way to Robertson. We go by farmland, fruit trees, olive trees, and winneries, some crops and fields for cows. Part of the land is yet wild with small shrubs. It is totally quiet. The valley is rather large, between two hedges of red cliffs with caves.
After a big hill, we join the main road again, with a lot of traffic. 2 hills more and we arrive in Robertson, where we go to a cosy backpacker.
On thursday we take a day rest in Robertson. We are in the heart of the wineland, orange apple and peers too. Well I drink milk when cycling. I change the potence of my bicycle for a shorter, we eat chicken chips, and rest and clean.
Talking with the bicylce teller, we decide to join the coast by Georges, as inland he tells us it would be monotonous farmland.
Well next comes 6 days hilly till Oudtshoorn.

Afrique 3 – CAP TOWN THE CITY

 Cape Town 2

First bad news, I send a message at about ten warmshowers cyclists in Cape Town, and I have only one answer, negative, so I will be alone here. And the collegues of Martine in Comunicare office are cool with her, but dont worry about entertaining us by the evening.
So Martine is here to do 2 weeks voluntaring for Comunicare, which is a society making buildings for riches and with the benefits buildings for poors. One of these buildings is an appart-hotel for old riches, and Comunicare lodges us in the guest flat, Bedroom and dining room. We have free food from the cantine too. The old are already ghosts, and I nearly never see or hear them. It is very quiet.
At the start Cape Town seems great, with the sea on one side, and the table mountain back. But apart trekking around< which means to have a car to go to the treks and make the things for tourists, each 100$, as diving in a cage to see squales, or flying over the mountain, there is not so much to do. The town itself is boring.
Martine is happy with its work, me I am boring. Cape Town is just a town like thousands, new ordinary buildings, streets parallels crosssing en perpendicular, no little places, no monuments. It used only for business and officials and tourism, it doesnt have any local life, no artisan. They are 3 main streets, Georges maill for tourism and official, with the expensive shops and the parliement, long street for tourists with all the lodges and stupid shops and pubs, and loop street with the business buildings. They are a few one hundred years old buildings in these streets, but nothing marvelous. The other touristic place is the harbour, where are only restaurants, shops, handcrafts for tourists. Well the view on the boats is nice, and some are big. At the top of Georges mail there are the old parliement, 2 museums and a little nice botanic garden, where I saw my first big game, squirrels and mices.
It has no sign of Africa here. That are the same shops , cars, and buidings as anywhere in Europa. People have the same clothes and the same look and the same behaviour than in Europa. Streets are clean and asphalt. Sure a lot are black but I barely notice it, as they look so in western ways. A suburb in Paris is more typical than here. The only African things are for tourists.
On tuesday i did a go and go back till the luthier to catch the mandolin, 70km, and on the way back I crossed the pass behind Cape Town. It is steep, but possible, and with a lot of trafic and no scenic view. It is not shorter than following the sea, so there no interest to do it. Then I wander downtown andd i play music.
This weekend we took the car of Comunicare to go till Cape Point, where we cycle a little in the national park. It is a narly flat area, with stones and shrubs and grass and windy. Cape Hope peak is nice, with the yellow cliff, an on the road going at it foot, we were along the sea, and we saw ostriech, tortoise, birds, flowers, and baboons. Then we lunch in Fishoek in front of the sea looking at the surfers, in the sun, for 2 hours. And then we go to the Botanic Garden by the mountain road. Well it is naerly the same, stones and shrubs, and views on the sea and the valley. It ends in a very green suburb with a few houses in trees. The park is nice but not so big, with trees and flowers from Africa.
It wont happen anything new till Sunday, the day we move to Roberston, I suppose.

Afrique 2 – WAY TO CAP TOWN

 Cape Town

Unfortunately, the plane is two hours late, so we arrive at one o clock, and then with the time to pick up the luggage and to build up the bicycles, it is already half past four. So after a talk with the tourist information, we decide to go to the neighbour hotel, nearly in front the airport. Well we turn on left getting off the airport, we go in a parking which looks like the entrance of an hotel, but this one is closed. So we misunterstand and believe the only thing to do is going till the next town, Muizenberg. But after a few km the road ends. So we go back and 500m after the cross with the airport we see the gazoline station and an hotel, the good one in fact. We take a room, and we go to eat a chicken ship, 3$, at the gazoline station.
On Sunday it is cloudy, but anyway we follow the plan, which is to go way to Cape point by the East coast. First we ask the way at the desk of the hotel. On the map it looks we would take the road M10. Well it is easy, just go straight till the bridge, climb it to join the N2 and turn on right on the M10. From the bridge we see a township and a slum, along the railway. Then the M10 goes along the railway, which means along the township and the slum. After one or two km, a drivr in a minibus makes us a sign to stop, tells us it is a very dangerous road, blacks would stop us and rob the bicycles, and an other driver stops and confirms. As the minibus driver proposes to bring us and the bicycles to a neighbour and safe road, we quickly accept. So he drives us to the road M17, road we could take following a bit more on the N2. The hotel should have told us the right way.
The road M17 goes by farmland, vegtables, and districts with houses, till the sea, in Strandfontein. I suppose we could ask to camp in these farms and avoid the hotel last night. At the sea we make a short stop to listen the wawes.
Then the road follows the coast, at the foot of dunes covered with succulents and dry soil grasses. Then we enters in the town, from Muizenberg till Fishhoek and Simons Town. The road still follows the coast, but it is busy, downtown, with surfers and tourist shops and restaurants. It is all at the foot of the mountains, falling by cliffs in the sea, it is spectacular. Infortunatly it starts to rain and to be cloudy. We make some shopping in Simon Town, where the shop seller tries to convince us to stop at the neighbour cabins campsite, which makes a very good price, and impressinG us telling tomorrow it would rain again. I decide that we continue. The rain stops aftr a short while, and the trafic too. The road follows climbing between sea and cliffs, with forest. Near the cross to go to Cape Point we feed our bottles of water in a farm, and then as we dont havee enough time, we dont go to the cape, but turn on right way to Scarborought. We are looking for a place to camp. first we stop in a campsite, but it cost 55$ forget it. Then Martine proposes we camp along the road behind trees, but I dont very like the site. The road is nice, going by fields and free landscape with schrubs. We see a family of babbuns in the trees which rounded the road. and we have tale wind so it is very easy. We continue a bit, and we see a couple of cyclists, white skin, waiting along the road. We start chatting, they are waiting some help because they just found a dead dog in the little brook. Well fortunatly they live in Scareborought, and they agree we camp in the courtyard. Well first Babeth indicates us the lawn, then the galery, and quickly the dining room, to sleep. Th house is very small, just a room a small corner for the kitchen and an other for the shower, and an other room upstairs. In in live 2 big dogs, and 2 very small, all nice. Georges makes the cooking, while Martine and Babeth chatt together. Georges is a musician player, drums and flute, for the navy, and a very good chef cooker. In the end they found too a matress for us. In the morning I play 2 songs with the mandolin, we take breakfast, and Georges drives us to a luthier, a friend of him, to repair the bridge of the mandolin, while Babeth explains the road to Martine.
We go by farmland and town districts till the home of the luthier. Bill was an ingenieur, but then he presently makes copies of small organs, clavicords, harsicords, and all these very old keyboards instruments. He repairs too violin family instruments, and gives baroc music concerts with a local band. His house is an old one, all in stone large walls, high cellings, wooden beams, chimney, it looks like a 19 century farm in Europ in the mountains. After a long chat, we let the mandolin and continue the road.
The next step is Chapmans drive, which is 6 km climbing by a road hollowed in the cliff which falls in the sea. First we can see a large bay with a long sandy beach, and then in front is the peak of Hout bay. Chapman peak is upper. We go down slowly, as it is very windy, and we pass Hout bay by Princess road, which follows the sea. Babeth tells us that the main road crosses unsafe districts. The get out is a steep and long and straight climbing, with a marvellous view on a valley rounded by high cliffs and mountains, were there glaciars here 10.000 years before?
After the downhill, again windy, we see in the distance the town of Cape town. The road follows along the sea, at the foot of the twelve apostoles, which are high cliffs like vertical waves. Then it joins the suburbs,, and for 10km we cycle in town, first along the beach and then along main streets, till the lodging.

Afrique 1 – JOHANNESBURG

 

Le circuit en Afrique du Sud

In Paris we have the luck that Philippe, a cyclist from CCI-asso bring us in his car, with all the luggages and the two bicycles, to the Roissy airport. Everything works perfect for the check in. then we have six hours flight to join Djedda. Here we have ten hours waiting in the airport. As we are in Souadian Arabia all the women are in black and bring the traditional chador. then we cross again the customs, and there are two queues, one for men and one for women. we take an other flight, seven hours and we arrive in Johannesburg airport. It is midday. We pick up the luggages and we get out in the hall. Here a few men propose them as taxis, but we dont trust them, and we ask to the tourist information point to call us a taxi. He is a nice right man, it cost us 50$. We are now in the backpacker in Melville district, in our cosy room. After a rest we go to the neighbour supermarket, and we go to the street with restaurants. We take a drink of wine in a jazz bar listening the musicians. In that place the customers are mixed. Then we have a glance at the restaurants. We avoid these with only white customers, and by the way we have a delicious tipical dinner in a place where we are the only whites, but noone cares about.
First day we go to the mall, Martine needs shoes and me a tarp, and some other things.
The next day we take a taxi to Constitutional Court and visit the old fort. We dont have time to visit more. Steve, a friend of Martine, joins us and bring us to Soweto, the famous township where is the house of Mandela. We visit it and then have a traditional lunch in the front restaurant. A township is a suburb with little cheap building houses all the same where the blacks were lodge during the apartheid. Well we have too a lot of township in Europ, for poor or for migrant origins, but the rule forbiding the entrance is in our head. I could say I live in a township in Malaga. Anyway we go back to the lodge then.
Third day we go back to Constitutional Court and we visit all. The court is a new building. The door is in wood, all carved. In the hall the roof is maintained by oblic stakes which remember the trees where local people met. And large butterfly looklike mobiles are the leaves. On a side is the old jail for the guilties waiting for judgement, open now. Then there is a long stairs down to the library, decoratd with paintings, which tell about local people. The second part of the visit is the carcels where mostly blacks were, politics and criminals mixed. Well it is like all the jails before, overcrowded dormitories, cold comun showers, isolation jails very small, and poor food. The worst prisonners become the bosses of the dormitories, and rob and ill treat the others. No help and no mercy in here. The objective was to punish, not to help reintagrate the honest life. Of course whites had better treatement, there own room and better food, then come the hindus, and the worst for the blacks.
Fourth day we visit the apartheid museum. It is a new building in concret, looking like a jail. Inside are movies photos and stories telling step by step the history of apartheid, from the the stat of Joburg, till the writing of the Democratic Constitution. All that is insteresting, but sad. By the evening we have dinner with Steve in the Jazz bar.
Fith day we take an early taxi to the airport, to take our flight to Cape Town.

South Africa 20 Way to Kruger Park

Well we continue slowly, hill after hill. The last one is the longer, about 8 km, under a terrible heat. I get slowly at the top. Near the end I have to walk, from a shadow to the next. It is too hot. At the top I stop and seat in the shadow, waiting for Martine. After a while, a van appears and stops at my level. Martine is in. A woman picks her up, she didnt her to continue pushing the bicycle in that heat. So I put too my bicycle in the van and we fo downhill to Sabie. The woman invites us to stay in his home nearby. Here we meet a neighbour and friend of us. He propose us to bring us back to Nelspruit airport, where we could rent a car. As Martine would like to see animals, I agree too, as by that way we could visit Kruger park. It is too late to get a reservation for a car, so the lady agrees we stay at his home one day more. We just rest and goes shopping in Sabie, which is half a tourist city, half a village. Martine spend all afternoon using internet on her phone to prepar Kruger park visit, and I read aebout cycling the South Mozambique to choose the following of the travel.

On Sunday morning Roy brings us to the airport where we get a car. And we go to Kruger park where we will stay 2 days. We see a lot of animals, and it is a bit funny to look for them in the small forest. We see also hyenas, as we get to the campsite late. but as we awake late we dont see lions. But it is rather expensive. 250$ for 4 days renting a car with 970 km, 100$ petrol, 90$ fee to stay in the park 2 days, 18$ for camping one night, 40$ for restaurant by the evening and cantine at midday. Then we add 60$ for the transport to the airport, 16$ for the campsite out of Kruger, and 80$ for the room in Pieterburg where we let the car and take one day rest, as Martine drives all the 3 days.

After Kruger park, we get of by Arpen gate and all around are private game parks. We camp in a campsite.