Afrique 42 – TANZANIA 8 – FROM ARUSHA TILL NAIROBI

 We get off Erik home early and we take the way to the border. The road follows by an easy long climbing, 30 km, by forest and farm land. There only a few small groups of houses along the way, basic shops, and a bigger village at midway. At the top, 2000 m about, we find us in a plateau, in fact hilly, with just grass, or small acacias in very open forest, undense, and forest on the hills around, which are in fact the peaks of the mountains. Again I suppose here it was all forest, a few hundred years before. Then humans cut the trees to make coal, fields, and push the animals away. Then rains brought the soil away, and now it lasts just poor grass and small acacias. That is the drama of Africa, too many people have to survive by anyway, they can’t respect the nature, and they can’t respect the future. And that is the way Africa would die, no more forest, no more wood for coal to cook and heat anything, no more soil for crops.

Then we follow on the plateau for a while. The road goes downhill in fact. 15 km after the top we cross a village, well very small and no guest house. From here starts the gravel road which goes around the mount Meru and joins the one around Kilimanjaro. No sign, no indication, and no sign to indicate the name of the village. After 25 km of light downhill the road flatters and follows undulating. We get some backwind and it is yet fresh for Africa. We cross a land without house or village, just grass, acacias, hills in the distance, and a few massais driving herds of cows or goats. By the end of the road, at the foot of a big hill, we can distinguish a big group of houses, a big village, our hope to find a roof for the night. It seems near, when we get at the end of the downhill, but we would have to cycle 2 hours more, and 30 km. We finally arrive in the little town, after 83 km, a long but easy day. I quickly find a guest house and a restaurant. People are nice here. We see a few gringos strolling around, certainly coming by some agencies to visit that typical massai place, but with new road and new buildings, not the so so poor places we saw all along the travel.
Just after the village we see the gravel road going west to Serengati. But we continue straigh for 30 km till the border, by an easy road. The little town is again looking like a slum, with a big building in the middle for the customs. It seems there a side district with good buildings, and the road is in works. Well we stop for a breakfast and we cross the border easily. Locals are yet very helpful for free, so good. Then we decide sleep here, as it is already hot, and the next guest house would be 32 km away. First we look for a guesthouse on the main road, which is in very bad state, but the 2 aren’t what we like. We see the town is in fact aside the road, by a gravel road on EST just after the border. So we take it and first we go too far. There are a lot of little shops along the street which confuse us. Then I ask and we go back. And just before getting out I see that the orange building I already noticed is a guest house. Good we are in town, which make easy some shopping. We first buy a sim card, and then we go to a little butchery restaurant.
We move early, and the road is hilly with long straight climbings. We go by farm land, with crops and cattle and poor grass with trees. There a few villages. The first at 20 km has just a few houses. The second 15 km away, smells, and don’t have a lot more, we just find a place to eat some chapattis, no lunch. We continue till the little town, 30 km more, where we decide to stop. As it is Sunday most of the shops and all the restaurants are closed. We find a strange guesthouse, unfinished, looking a bit like a Wald Disney castle. By the evening a drunk massai try to open our door with keys, 2 times. First I talk with him calmly, second I go to the boss of the hotel, who manages the trouble. But we close the door with a table, in case. In fact that was the watchman, drunk, who were trying all the keys to be sure there is no double.
In the morning we take a taxi to Nairobi to avoid any danger of robbery, 6000 sh. In fact we go in a suburb south, near the giraffe park. The taxi takes a back road on left at the first village. We see some wild animals and farmland and grass. We arrive at the entrance of the town, we turn on right at a big cross, and we arrive in Rangai suburb. Here we meet here the family of Francis who accept to lodge us for 3 days, warmshowers. We get a very nice time with us. First day we go shopping with the boy, then I go to the market with the 2 girls to prepare a Chilean soup for supper, and last the mother makes chapattis. In the early morning we take a taxi to the airport. The parents awake at 5 with us to say goodbye.
In the plane our neighbor is a woman, 45 years old about. That is the first time she takes a plane. Martine reassures her. She explains that she found by agency a contract to work as a housekeeper for 2 years in a family in South Arabia. She let behind her family with 3 children, and she doesn’t know anything about the family or the town where she goes. No possibility to escape, as she doesn’t have money. She speaks a few English. Till the end, we meet the terrible African misery. We get 15 hours waiting in Djeda airport, interesting to see all the Muslims tribes with local Muslim clothes. At the end we arrive in Istanbul.

Afrique 41 – TANZANIA 7 – FROM MOSHI TILL ARUSHA

 We take the bus from Dar till Moshi. So we get at 8 am 4 km very busy, and then 4 km more with low traffic, till the bus terminal. Here a woman drives us till a big bus with a big cargo, where it is easy to put the bikes and luggages. We have to fight a little to get reasonable prices for the tickets and the luggages. We pay each 50.000 sh for the ticket, and 25.000 sh for the bike, which makes all 50$. It is certainly too much, but not so bad, the bus is in good state and comfortable. The road is hilly and hot all along. First it crosses a flat with small bush, grass, or sisal. Then on East side is the wall of the mountains, with abrupt slopes and cliffs, with small fields of sisal at the foot, very impressive, and on West side a flat land with grass. The road doesn’t enter in the mountains so it doesn’t look difficult, but very dry. It seems there is only little traffic. There are only a few little villages and some towns along the way. Arriving near Moshi, we see the peak of the Kilimanjaro, covered with snow.

We arrive at 7 pm in Moshi, and we go straight to Buffalo hotel, easy to find and near the bus terminal. Then we go to a restaurant. First we just go in front, but when I see only groups of Mzungus, I would like to find other place. Unfortunately it is late so everything is closed, so we go back to Indoitaliano restaurant. We have to wait 1h30 to get the 2 pizzas. We notice that the Mzungus eat just a little piece of their plate, such a shame in Africa! Well these people who wastes 5.000$ in 2 weeks to climb the Kilimanjaro, and visit Serengeti park and Zanzibar, doesn’t care about Africa or African, they just care about themselves, as autists as Tommy, the lead character of the rock and roll band The Who. 5.000$ is 10 years salary of a primary school teacher in Congo!

Well at 9 am we move cycling way to Arusha. The road first is hilly climbing 300 m, and then goes downhill 300 m to get back to 800 m. Then comes a 10 km long climbing to cross a pass at 1200 m, 400 m up. Then comes 7 km downhill to go back 900 m. And that finish by 25 km climbing to rise Arusha and 1500 m high. We do it in 2 days, 60 km and 25 km, as I yet suffer recovering from malaria. We don’t see the Kilimanjaro, and barely see the Meru, as it is very cloudy. First the countryside is large fields, with crops and villages and farms. We pass the cross to the airport and we enter in a very dry land, flat, with sand and poor grass, and herds of cattle with shepherds. There are a very few farms and small villages without guest houses. Then we start the long climb and it becomes a little greener. We finally arrive in USA cross to Meru Mountain, and little further is the big village with all the services. Day after we get the long climb to Arusha, 25 km, with a very lot of traffic, and with a narrow shoulder. We see a lot of 4*4 with Mzungus. They all stop at the same shops, they don’t see Africa. The countryside changes totally, it becomes tropical, with a lot of trees, flowers, and farms with papayas, bananas and mangoes.

We arrive in Arusha at midday where we meet Erik, from warmshowers. It is good to stay in a real old house with nice furniture and decoration. Also he gets 2 houses, with very amazing architecture, and his family is very simpathic.
By the afternoon we go downtown to the supermarket, and it is horribly busy with minibuses and cars. We quickly go back to the quiet of Erik home. We stay 2 nights as I need to rest. It is raining, big showers and storms.
Erik tells us it is possible to follow by bicycle the coast road from Dar to Tanga, crossing the national park. Also he tells us the nice road to go to the border is going way to Serengeti, and just before the gate of Nogorogo national park, on Makuyuni, turn on right on the gravel road which join the main road Arusha Nairobi near the border, passing by Massai territory, between Vulcans, and with animals.
Well recovering malaria, I can’t follow it.

Afrique 40 – TANZANIA 6 – ZANZIBAR

 ZANZIBAR

La perle de l’orient, prétendent tous les voyageurs et guides. Vu de la mer c’est une ile basse couverte de bush, avec quelques grands hôtels modernes et près du port industriel quelques bâtiments administratifs du siècle dernier, ressemblant aux hôtels australiens, façades de bois, balcons en bois ajoure, et ferronneries ajourées. Dès la sortie du ferry, les mouches a touristes assaillent, mais en douceur, sans insister. Ce sera la répétitivité qui sera lassante, chaque minute un nouvel appel. Ensuite viens la route circulaire le long de la mer, et l’entrée dans la vieille ville. C’est un ensemble de quelques rues en toile d’araignée reliées par de multiples passages. C’est un labyrinthe ordonne, finalement simple à comprendre. A l’intérieur les immeubles à 2 ou 4 étages forment haie. En général ils n’offrent que des façades ordinaires avec petites fenêtres, d’un gris sale, irrégulier, avec une porte en fer, ou en bois sculpte. Mais ceux sont toujours les mêmes portes, quelques modelés répétés. Peu de sculptures, et seuls les hôtels de luxe ont des façades rénovées, et parfois des balcons en bois sculptes. Dans ces rues on rencontre des échoppes ordinaires qui n’ont rien à vendre, et des échoppes avec des souvenirs, artisanats mal faits et sans gout, tous les mêmes, et des prix multiplies par 10. Plus loin on entre dans le marché, l’endroit le plus agréable, le seul endroit vrai. Mis à part la grande avenue bruyante de trafic automobile, c’est un ensemble de véritables étals avec des petites boutiques, pas un bidonville de morceaux de bois, plastiques et cartons, avec des passages propres, plats et secs, pas un égout avec des ordures éparpillées, à marcher entre elles et les flaques. Ici j’ai plaisir à marcher, à regarder les étals, a gouter un peu de pieuvre, à boire un jus de canne, à manger des fruits, au prix local, comme les locaux. Mais il fait chaud, Martine a faim et ne picore pas elle veut un vrai resto. Nous nous asseyons donc en terrasse d’un resto local, puis nous retournons dans la vieille ville pour touristes, l’ennui et la nullité, la magie est finie. Le lendemain je suis toujours patraque, faible, par la malaria. Nous faisons un bref tour dans les ruelles, nous achetons les billets pour le ferry. Le type du port charge de nous conduire à la boutique nous promène chez ses amis, mais nous voulons payer par carte de crédit. Nous arrivons à une boutique plus respectable, mais nous devons attendre la patronne, la seule qui sait utiliser la machine à cartes.
Apres quoi Martine achète quelques souvenirs, et nous allons boire un thé dans un hôtel de luxe pour pouvoir utiliser la wifi.
Le lendemain nous prenons le ferry pour Dar. Nous n’aurons pas été voir les plages de la côte Est, bordées de lodges et hôtels pour touristes blancs, il fait trop chaud et je suis patraque.
Zanzibar, stone town sans maison en pierre, mais juste une ville en dur, et en fait de perle plutôt une verroterie. Jusqu’au bout l’Afrique Sud Est m’aura déçue, m’aura parue sans intérêt.

Afrique 39 – TANZANIA 5 – DAR ES SALAAM

 DAR ES SALAAM

Nous arrivons à Dar es Salam en bus. Les gens nous indiquent la sortie du parking de la gare routière, immense et confuse.
Puis nous avons 10 km à parcourir par la grande route à 4 voies, dans le trafic et le chaos des vélos, motos, piétons et camions, bus et voitures, avec la circulation ralentie et bousculée par des travaux. Finalement nous arrivons sans encombre au centre ancien. Et de la grâce au plan affiche sur le téléphone et aux indications des gens, nous arrivons à l’hôtel, ou nous trouvons une jolie chambre pour 35$.
Juste à cote il y a un excellent restaurant pour les riches, ou nous déjeunerons tous les midis, de grillades et bons légumes. Je me demande qui de nous 2 a le plus d’appétit, nous dévorons.
Nous marchons un peu dans Dar, d’un cote pour aller à l’ambassade du Canada pour que Martine récupère son passeport, de l’autre du cote du port, qui est à côte de l’hôtel. Nous allons aussi plus à l’intérieur pour rencontrer le Canadien qui travaille avec l’association pour laquelle Martine voulait faire du volontariat. Elle espérait visiter avec lui quelques opérations de construction, mais il n’aura pas le temps de nous amener, la malchance continue.
Dar est une vraie ville, avec des rues goudronnées, des immeubles et des maisons, un plan d’ensemble, des boutiques, des échoppes, et des marches. Ça fait plaisir à voir. Il y a une jolie esplanade le long de la mer pour rejoindre le quartier des ambassades, et le port est en train de devenir un quartier moderne. Nous n’avons pas été voir le marché des pécheurs, il faisait très chaud et je fatigue vite, toujours souffrant de la malaria.
Apres quelques jours nous prenons le ferry pour Zanzibar.

Afrique 38 – TANZANIA 4 – FROM MIKOUMI TILL MOROGORO

 New day we have to cross another national park, with animals this time. So we cycle together, to avoid any lonely bad meeting. Nearly no chance, but… We go slow, as we are yet tired, and we don’t want to miss animals. Well we see a lot of herds of gazelles, some kudus, and a few buffalos in the distance. We see also at the start big birds, as there are some natural dams. And by luck we see 2 herds of giraffes, very near, one running along the road accompanying us for a while. Well all the restaurants and shops are inside the Park and we not allowed crossing the gates, so we just stop in the sun to eat a bit and rest, not very comfortable. And yet the crazy trucks and buses drivers are racing, horrible. The second part of the park is with a lot of little trees, and we don’t see any more animals. Also it becomes hilly, and hot. After 50 km we get off the park and we join the village Doma, where we plan to sleep. I take lunch, as Martine feels seek and doesn’t want to eat, and we ask for the guesthouses. Well there is only one, and it is all full, awful. The lodge disappeared time ago. The owner of the guest house tells us there is a guest house in the next village, 30 km away. It is very hot. I propose to Martine to try a primary school here, but she wants comfort, shower and fan. So we hardly do the 30 km, very hilly and climbing, to arrive at the village. Well it is just a few shops, and there is no guest house. Also at the start everyone tries to sell me anything, so I stay in silence, in the shadow on the other side, where there are no shops, waiting for Martine. When she arrives we talk a while, we buy some water, the villagers are nicer, more helpful, and as Martine doesn’t get anymore strength, she accepts to ask shelter in the primary school. We go in, 500 m away, and meet the head teacher. I quickly get a strong headache because of the heat on the road, so I let Martine talk. Anyway she is better than me for that. She continues to be happy to tell our trip, and to tell she is a teacher, well always the same story. But she is American; she likes to look the stronger and the clever one. Anyway that is working. But we get a long chat, whilst the head teacher asks to children to manage we get a bucket of water and drinking water. Here there is no well, no bore water. Some has to bring it from a bit far, and for drinkable water some has to boil it. After a long while water doesn’t arrive, none brings it. And we both feel very tired, longing to go to bed. The head teacher proposes us to sleep in his dining room, but it is too small, so we settle in a classroom. It is hot, we don’t get a bucket to wash ourselves, and Martine feel yet seek and doesn’t eat.

I can only constate that Martine doesn’t stand anymore the heat, the bad food, the hot water, and the incomfort we meet in Africa. So as I know following the road would be at the best in the same difficult conditions, and certainly worst, as we would have to follow a lot of dusty trails far from towns, I decide the trip would finish in Zanzibar. We won’t go to Uganda and Kenya, and get arguments each day because she is looking for impossible comfort, impossible cold water and impossible good food, impossible fresh weather to pedal.
Me that makes already a long time I have enough of crossing slums, seeing destroyed or abandoned lands and forests, seeing only chickens, cows and goats as big game, and miserable people everywhere, working all by hands, with no hope of better, or staying idle and drunk.

Next day Martine awakes early and moves out the tent in hurry to try to find some fresh air. Me I still get a strong headache, and tired by getting it all night. So we have a very slow ride till Morogoro, the big town, 40 km away. The road is hilly and we enter in a poor land flat and all covered by small bush. It is very hot. We stop in a very small village, just a few huts, and I eat some chapattis with tea in a restaurant, well a few plastic chairs under a corrugated roof, and ground floor. In front is a mountain, lonely, with the slopes all naked, no grass, no trees, just sand and rocks. In the distance on south we can see high mountains, all a lane, in the fog. We hardly arrive at the cross, with still these crazy drivers. We turn on right way to Morogoro town, an other big slum in concrete. Well the main streets are asphalt and most of the building are in concrete, but ugly, bad maintained, just cubes without any art or decoration, and dark inside. First at the bus stop we turn on left and arrive in the university district, always a bit better, with real buildings and gardens. We ask for a guest house at a filling station, and after a long chat between them they tell us this guy would drive you to a lodge for 1$ forget it. We go back to the bus terminal and ask to a policeman. He indicates us the street on left rounded by very high mango trees, nice road. But the guest houses are miserable, or in the mountain, far from town. We go back and try the last street. We see near the Alood buses shop 2 hotels. We choose the best one and the best room. We stay 3 nights, Martine is resting, again seek, and me boring in that town where there is nowhere to walk, to ugly. We eat too in the expensive restaurant of the hotel for lunch, and buy food in the only one in town and small supermarket just at the corner. Morogoro is at the foot of a beautiful large peak, we discover it when the sun trough the fog away. It is all green, with grass and small bush, with cliffs and abrupt slopes, and 3 real peaks, not smooth at all. It would be nice to walk in, but it would cost at least 100$ each by day, and we would have to find a guide and porter for the food, out of our budget, and anyway too expensive for a trek, as I can do same or better in Western for 15$ a day.
There are 2 ways to visit Africa, the cheap one, near the local people and their way of life, or the very expensive one, doing all the things for tourists, national parks to see animals, trekking mountains, or forests, rafting rivers, flying over natural sites, diving, driving in dunes in the desert, etc…, just spend 200 till 500$ a day each, be conceited, be only interested by himself and his own pleasure, and have any care or empathy for the miserable population everywhere. That is what most of the tourists, also cyclists do in Africa, that is why they enjoy it. Then come those who work here, I didn’t meet them, so I don’t talk about.

Afrique 37 – TANZANIA 3 – FROM IRINGA TILL MIKOUMI

 We should start early from Iringa, but Martine gives me a hand to get the bike between 2 parked cars and scratched her short. So first we go to a tailor for a quick repair. Then we take the road, undulating by a large valley with farmland, between 2 lanes of hills; well remember theses are not hills but smooth tops of mountains, 2000 m high. The slopes are covered with small bush. We get an 8 km long steep climb, with a great view of all the land down, on left, forest everywhere. Then comes a long light downhill till Ilula, a small town, looking like a slum as always. We take lunch at the top part, and then we discover the main part is downhill. At the end I see the only comfortable guesthouse, but yet it is not midday, so I decide to continue. We cross Ikokoto, which is indicated on the map as a main village, but it is just a few houses along the road. I ask and some tells me there is a hotel downhill. Well we get 10 km steep down winding along a stream, in a gorge, between 2 abrupt high slopes, with high trees. No houses here, no huts, and none can chop the trees. We get s few views on the stream, and we go rather slowly. We arrive at the hotel, but it is a tourist trap, with rooms at 25 and 35 $, a big place with various buildings, restaurants, huts for traditional lodging, conference hall, etc…, all empty but no way to bargain. We continue, as I hope to find some guest house near. After 10 km we arrive in Mahenge. We are again in a valley with farms, but along the river, so there are some good views on the river and plants around, and big trees. In Mahenge are 2 guest houses, but without visiting it or stop, Martine decide alone that they are too uncomfortable, and continues. We get some argument, as we have already done 75 km and the next village would be far, and it is very hot, but she continues. I follow her slowly, and after 35 km she is waiting for me at the entrance of a big village, where there are some guest houses. There were others villages on the road, but too small and too poor to get anything. We go to have a look at this place; well it is a dirty slum along the road, a truck stop, noisy and smelling gasoil. There are 3 miserable guest houses along the road, with bar, so we have chance to get loud music all night. We choose to go back to the guest house just before the entrance of the village. At least it seems quite and clean. In fact there no water no electricity and the owners who live in are very noisy, talking loudly, sweeping the courtyard at 6 am. Worse than anything other in the end! Well I go instantly to bed with aspirin and my walkman to try to sleep.

In the morning I move away as quick as possible. I need to be outside, and we have a long day, and I am tired and with headache, because of the too long day yesterday. Fortunately we enter in a national park and the country side is wonderful. We are in a narrow valley winding along the river, slightly downhill, so easy to pedal. The slopes of the mountains on each side are covered with forest, with high trees, no one chops them here. Well certainly it is not the original forest, destroyed before by the locals, but at least it is forest. And in the valley grow a lot of big baobabs, here protected and with a sign and a number on each and other big trees. I can see birds flying. And there are a very few huts along the river, with just some vegetable garden, a bit far from the road. They are populated by Massai, yet in traditional clothes, very tall and slim, very poor too. Africa, with Europe, are the only 2 continents where primitive or very antic tribes are not respected and not protected. So we get a nice ride for 35 km. The only problem is as there is no village; there is no shop, no restaurant. So we are hungry. Then starts the long climb, 35 km more, at the start easy and then with long steep stretches. Well the countryside continues beautiful, however we get off the river bed. At the top I see a hut selling bananas, but for whites it is 4 times the price so I let it. 1 km after, downhill, a farm gets a stand with bananas, where I get the local price. Then it is the downhill till Mikoumi. We get off the national park, and the forest is no more protected. So all the hills are nearly naked, most of the trees are cuted, letting just poor grass, rocks, and scattered poor small trees in the heat and the sun. Sure here in a few years the mountains would be dry rock, and nothing more growing, and people moving away, no more wood coal, so no way to make some money to survive, no way to cook, no way to get hot water or to heat anything. Yet they don’t use fuel or gas, too expensive, and needing a special expensive stove too. Just before the town I stop under a tree, in the shadow, just at the foot of a farm, to wait for Martine. The young guys talk with me for a while, but their English is short, and my Swahili shorter. So I am alone again and I co to the town. Well it is just another slum along 2 roads, with shops, a few guesthouses, and restaurants, trucks stop. And bus station. Mikoumi is at the entrance of 3 big national parks, so it should be a big town with supermarkets and lodges for tourists, but not at all. We eat at a restaurant and stop at the first acceptable guesthouse. The room is large and clear and quiet but dirty and very very hot, as the fan turns but it is wrong made, so it doesn’t move the air, just makes noise. We see later other acceptable guesthouses further, passing the trucks balance.

Afrique 36 – TANZANIA 2 – FROM MATAMBAKO TILL IRINGA

 Then we follow way to Iringa, in 3 days.

First day is by an easy but hilly flat for 30 km, we stay around 1600 m, with a very large view on the flat downhill, rounded by mountains in the distance. Then we climb 300 m till Nyororo, a big village slum, where we find a lodge.
Next day is a long day, 75 km, till Ifunda. We enter in a long and very large plantation forest of eucalyptus and pine trees, planted with the help of Norwegians, for wood and paper industries. There are a lot of different flowers on the shoulder, and on one place are growing a few parasol acacias. We follow that forest for 25 km. Then there a long and steep climb till Sao hill, and a long slight downhill till and other big slum town, Mafinga. We get a good lunch here, and it is certainly the place where I forget my vacuum flask. After Mafinga comes back an asphalt and large shoulder. It is a relief, because the drivers are fool in that country. They drive very fast, and overtake anywhere, without any visibility, at a top of a hill, at a curve, or a long file. Buses and trucks are racing, overtaking each other. And of course they won’t slower if there is no room for the small cyclist. So we have regularly to stop on the grass shoulder to let the trucks and buses go on. And there is rather a lot of traffic. Well cars drivers are not better, just very less in number. Each we see one or two trucks crashed along the road. That are new crashes, they don’t let the old crashed trucks along the road. We come back in a land with fields, but we don’t see any farm or crop or cattle, it looks like unused. The road continues with long hills. We get suddenly a splendid view on a very big swamp, mostly covered with green. We try to stop in the lodge Old farm Kisolanda, but it costs 40$ for a room and 14$ for camping, more than double price than a nice room in a lodge, 6$ today. So we move away and continue till Ifunda. We arrive just after the rain, so the very black sky was just impressive. We stop at top of the town, in the first lodge indicated, just behind the market. It looks typical African ambiance, with the bar and a little kitchen outside for the restaurant. We get good food for 4$. Well coming back to the room I discover I lost my vacuum flask so I am a bit disappointed.
We get 40 km to join Iringa. That starts by 7 km climbing till 2000 m and 300 m downhill and a long slight downhill till the village, another slum. Then some other hills and a long downhill slightly, till the cross to Dodoma. The road goes by a large valley, with huts and basic farms, between 2 lanes of hills, covered by a small bush. Well the hills are in fact the top of the mountains, at about 2000 m high. Then Iringa town is at the top of the hill, so we have 2 km climbing at 7%. Iringa is a big town, and lodging is expensive. Well we find a nice place to stay, for 2 nights. Then we go walking. Mostly the center is a market, shops everywhere, each one trying to win some money, lanes of building one flat high, in basic concrete. Only around the university there are some high buildings in good state and shops for white tourists. I ask to one of that shop where to find a new thermos. He drives us to another bazaar, where I effectively quickly find a good thermos. Then we come back. I go to the iron smith down to improve my front rack, following suggestion from Martine. Now the paniers would be more in the axe of the front wheel.
Then I go a bit to internet, good news the lodger in Malaga continue to pay.
Martine spends the afternoon reading.

Afrique 35 – TANZANIA 1 – FROM THE BORDER TILL MATAMBAKO

 We stay 2 nights in Telkia, the border town, in a luxury lodge for 20$, as Martine needs rest. The town is nothing more than a slum, with a few buildings in concrete bad made, some in bricks, and mostly in wood or mud. After comes the long climb till Mbeya, 85 km and 1800 m climbing. The first day we climb 1000 m and 40 km till Tukuyu. The second day we get 20 km descending 300 m, and then 20 km till the pass, 2300 m high, and in the end 5 km of quick downhill till the cross with the main road. The countryside is very different from Malawi. We pass by farmlands, luxuriant, with bananas, papaya, mangoes, pineapple, corn and manioc. There are a lot of houses along the road, with wall in concrete and hay roof. We see motorcycles instead of bicycles, and trucks and small buses. People too are very different, nice and helpful for free. Unfortunately only a few speak English, the local language is Swahili. When we stop in a village, always someone asks us what we are looking for, and drives us to the shop, without asking a beer or money. Children shout Mzungu, white in Swahili, good bye, but don’t beg. And also we find in each big village a lodge for 6$, very comfortable. All that makes that new country very relaxing and agreeable. On right the road is at the foot of the slope, in a narrow flat where are the farms and some fields, and on left is a very steep slope which goes till the lake, and then continues between mountains, with forest. Tukuyu is just another big slum, with a bus stop and a market, and a small district upper with a few official offices. Uyole, which is at the cross with the main road, is another slum, bigger and that is all. We spend again 2 nights for Martine. Well internet is working well. In front the mountains are covered only with grass, apart the top where there is a pine trees plantation. Certainly the forest which covered the slopes with small trees was cut down, for wood coal, and for the cattle to graze, and also to avoid animals stayed hidden inside.

Then we turn on right, following the main road till Dar es Salaam. The weather continues the same, mostly hot and sunny, with storm in the afternoon and the night. At midday we rake a lunch, chicken or meat with rice and beans or chips, in a local canteen, just a very small shop, with a few table inside or outside, and a woman cooking outside on braseros with wood coal. I slowly understand that here the people are maybe poorer than in Zambia, as the meals are very poor meat and food, and prices very cheap. The road enters in more farmlands with small houses along, less luxuriant, and more fields. The road is on right at the foot of a hill with mountains behind in the distance, presently in the continuous rain, and on left we have a large view of the flat downhill all with forest.
First day we continue downhill, for 300 m, till Chimala, with a few hills. Then we less the railway, and we enter in a hilly road, a bit steep, through forest and less houses, we are near reserves on each side. We were planning to do 60 km, but we find a hotel only in Wamgin Ombe, 80 km today. The third day is short and easy climbing along the railway. We arrive in Makambako, but we see the railway station, a few gasoline stations, a miserable cross, and a lot of trucks stopped along the road, waiting for the weight station. We pass all that, looking for a center, and we don’t see anything. So we continue, and we enter in the land again. After 2 km we understand we are already out of the town, and we have to go back. Just at this time a truck stops near Martine and gives her back her wallet with the money that she lost in the filling station in town. Thanks to them. So we go back, and at the filling stations just before the railway station we turn way to Songea. Coming from East there is a sign. We find a lodge, and I finally, at the end of the town, find an ATM where I can get money with my MasterCard. Since Zambia I mostly depend on Martine for the money, as my visa card was stolen, and most of the ATM refuses MasterCard. Matambako is just another slum, with a little more in the shops.