Then the headmaster comes to talk with us a while before saying goodbye. The road continues through the same valley, which becomes less beautiful as larger. It is mostly hilly descending. At the end there is a bridge and then a long steep climb, 5 km about. I wait for Martine at the top under a shelter for sellers, just four sticks and some hay for roof, and 2 stones to seat. I chase a few children begging throwing them small stones, to keep relax. They stay with friends a bit away and very surprised. After there is a long and steep downhill, 10 km at least, with a few views on the lake and the beaches. 10 km more downhill and we arrive at a lodge, cheap and nice, in front the lake, just before kupa lodge. I notice none of the cyclists whom I readed the blog talk about that long climb, they certainly took by the lake on a ferry and avoid Mzuzu. But too none speaks about the steep climb to go up to Lilongwe from the lake. Well the lake has nothing particular. It is too large, so we cant see the reflection of the mountains around. The mountains which are at the oposite are too far to be really visible, and just with forest, no snow or rocks or glaciars. The beach is narrow. The fishers village neighbour is just a huts slum smelling. A few canoes in one piece of trunk are on the beach, webs are drying on sticks, and some women bring buckets with fish on the head. I feel quickly boring and we move in the morning. Martine would prefer to stay as the room is comfortable, with fan and fridge. I was hoping to find an other lodge 50 km away. The road first follows the lake, with some views on beaches or smelling fishers villages slums. Then it enters in farmlands, ordinary countryside with regulary concrete slums. We just go on, it is sunny and hot, and mostly flat with 2 hills. We efectivly find a lodge after 54 km but it costs 50$, double price, so we continue. I propose to stop in a primary school, but Martine refuses, she wants a shower and a fan. So we continue by the flat poor land till Karonga. Well is it because yesterday was the 31 and today the 1 of new year, but people are not boring asking money, apart some drunks, and they mostly say nicely hello or happy new year. We stop in the first hotel in Karonga, paradise hotel, 15$ for a clean and clear room.
In the morning Martine decides to move away till Tanzania, so we cross the very small town at 8 pm. Then we enter in a flat farmland with rice fields and houses everywhere. A lot of people are walking and a lot of children are shouting give me MY money so we are just racing till the border. We make only one stop near a river. Some adults and children insult us as we don’t stop or answer when they shout at us, so at those who tell us some blames in english we ask give me money shouting. Not sure they understand they have bad behaviour, but at least we take a revenge.
We finally cross the border at 12 am. I just don’t answer at the young begger who tells me 20 times hello before moving away. We change our Malawi money at the change shop just after the migration hall. When we cross the bridge to Tanzania border changers are trying to attract us but we just go on cycling the bikes. We cross the Tanzanian border easily, Martine has some nice talk with a Tanzanian, and we enter in Tanzania.
Malawi EST le pays des MALAPPRIS
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